Tag: Travel

The Rookie’s Guide to Tapas

Published on by E L B2 Comments

Tonight, for the first time since I arrived in Spain, I felt like I was in Europe. And it was all thanks to tapas.

Earlier this week, our first week in Spain, some friends and I were keen to try some tapas, that all-important Spanish ritual of eating and drinking that seems so simple yet, somehow, the Spaniards have perfected to a near art. Oh, you can imagine the anticipation as we crowded into the center of a tapas bar that was just opening for the evening. That was short-lived. It only took us a hot second to realize that we had no idea what we were doing, and then scuttle back onto the street. How does one do tapas? We looked at each other quizzically, and decided to work the question over with some helado (ice-cream), which, incidentally, is never a bad idea in Santander, but that’s another matter.

For those of you who are new to the Spanish culinary scene, let me bring you up to speed.

WHAT?

Tapas are small plates of food, typically consisting of jamón (cured ham), queso (cheese), huevo (egg), patate (potato), or maybe some variation of pescado (fish) commonly piled on a slice of pan (bread).

That is the traditional variety, but some more “cutting-edge” establishments are serving up favorites from Latin America, including pint-sized burritos à la Mexico and Argentinean empanadas.

Something similar, often confused with, but slightly different from tapas is pinchos, or pintxos (in Basque). Pintxos are a bit smaller, or more delicate, and much more work intensive, with a lot of care going into details and presentation. The best are said to be found in San Sebastian.

WHEN?

Tapas are usually eaten either just before lunch (1 pm – 3 pm) or just before dinner (6 pm – 9 pm). The idea is for the light meal to hold you over until the appropriate dining hour arrives. This is especially nice for foreigners who are not used to the Spaniard’s late mealtime hours. The food is also meant to accompany your pre-dinner drink. A Spaniard would never drink on an empty stomach – they know how to hold their alcohol.

WHERE?

While tapas can be found at most restaurants, bars, and cafes in Spain, some establishments specialize in tapas.

Tapas can be found all over Spain, although they prefer the above-mentioned pintxos in Basque country. I hear that in Granada it is written into law that every round of drinks ordered must be accompanied by a free plate of tapas. I, for one, am intrigued.

WHO?

Friends and family go out for tapas in groups of three or four. This is because tapas are typically eaten standing at a counter or gathered around a small cocktail table – there’s simply no room for more!

HOW?

Now let’s get back to the million-dollar question: How does one do tapas?

My friends and I chose to solve this riddle by asking our professors to recommend a nice tapas place for first-timers like us. Maybe they would come along and show us the ropes? Our simple request for a nice place to eat culminated into a verbal ping-pong match between our two professors (it was quite exciting) with the end result being that tapas should be included in our curriculum. ¡Vale! That was an unexpected, but very welcome outcome. (All the same, my friends and I considered ourselves muy suerte (smooth) for getting the ball rolling on that one.)

So, the next evening, after touring the Catedral de Santander to appreciate the various examples of roman, romantic, and gothic architecture found there, our class of twenty stood in the drizzle on a street corner while our professors spoke just above the sound of city traffic to communicate to us the ritual of Spanish tapas. As you can imagine, we were all a bit mystified. Soon we found ourselves trailing the streets among the Spaniards in search of our first tapas experience. This is what we found:

Tapas is something akin to a moving cocktail hour (or two). You travel with your group from restaurant to bar to etc.

The norm is to visit three places in an evening. At each locale, every member of your group samples one or two tapas and a drink (the Spanish drink of choice is wine). While everyone orders one tapas a piece, it is understood that each tapas will be shared amongst the group.

Tapas are customarily ordered at the bar. There will be a crowd of people instead of a line, so be prepared to jump in when you are ready to order. There may or may not be a menu. If there is no menu, then you may choose from the tapas that are on display on the counter. Either way, try to know what you want to order before the server gets to you. Neither the server nor those waiting behind you will appreciate you taking the time to peruse what’s on offer. Oh, and one person orders for everyone in the group. Don’t be nervous if you aren’t sure what to order. I’ve asked several Spaniards what their favorite tapas is and every single one of them has reported, “They’re all good!”.

To pay for the bill, everyone throws about 5 Euro into the proverbial pot. This will cover everyone’s drink and tapas. Nobody is allowed to count out who-owes-what. If you do not partake in a round of tapas, you do not need to contribute to the bill at that establishment, that’s fine.

But please, above all else, take your time and relax. It is tempting and all too easy to finish off a quick tapas in a few minutes – but don’t. A good way to slow down is to watch how much is left in your glass compared to what is left on your plate: is your glass half full but your tapas nearly non-existent? Then now would be a good time to take a breath and enjoy. Watch the scene around you, or indulge in some conversation – you know what to do.

Tapas is simple, and Spaniards understand this. And that, dear reader, is the beauty behind the art of tapas.

Emily Bowman, DUSA Student Blogger

Tapas sitios in Santander (recommended by my professors, two locals) 

Casa Lita – Paseo de Pereda, in front of the monument to los raqueros

 Bodegas Mazón – Calle Hernán Cortés, close to the intersection with Casimiro Sainz

Cañas, Vinos y Tapas – Calle Hernán Cortés, close to the intersection with Lope de Vega

Días de Sur – Calle Hernán Cortés, close to the intersection with Lope de Vega

Cervecería Cruzcampo – At the corner of Calle Hernán Cortés and Lope de Vega

Bodega Cigaleña – At the corner of Eduardo Benot and Emilia Pardo Bazán

Los hijos de Florencia – At the corner of General Mola and Eduardo Benot

La despensa – At the corner of Daoiz y Velarde and Pancho Cossio

Casa Ajero – At the corner of Daoiz y Velarde and Pancho Cossio

La Bodega Conveniente – In the Plaza Cañadío

Marcelino – Calle Pizarro, close to the intersection with Santa Lucía

Mesón Ramapalay – At the intersection of Gómez Oreña with Daoiz y Velarde; next to the Plaza de Pombo and the church of Santa Lucía

Café de Pombo – In the Plaza del Pombo

Luzmila – At the corner of Hernán Cortés and Marcelino Sautuola; in between the Plaza Porticada and the Plaza Cañadío

La Casa del Indiano – Inside of the Mercado del Este

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Internet won’t be what you’re used to… ;)

Published on by sarahsouthafrica1 Comment
Wise advice from the DUSA blog coordinator.  I would almost say that it was an understatement.  Internet here has been one of the biggest headaches of my experience.
Problem 1: I have a Mac.  Apple Macintoshes have become common throughout the states.  They haven’t fully made their journey to South Africa yet.  My Mac wont pick up the wireless.  I took it to I-Tech every day for two weeks before they got it to work.
Problem 2: The wi-fi here likes to not work.  It likes to not work a lot.  It’s rather lazy actually.
Problem 3: Half of the online sites, such as Facebook, Tumblr, WordPress, and Spotify are blocked from the hours of 7am to 7pm.  I thought becoming nocturnal was an option until I realized the entire campus of PMB already made that decision.  The Internet at night is so slow and so bad that you can’t properly get onto those sites using the wi-fi because everyone is trying to use it at once.
Lesson of the month:  The computer lab is your new best friend.
As expected of a different country, there are other things I’m not used to as well.  For example, Denver has squirrels – South Africa has cats.  There are wild cats everywhere.   They are pretty too.  They don’t look wild or mean. They look like house cats.  Except that there are a lot of them and they live outside.
Also, Denver has hotdog stands – South Africa has outdoor convenience stores.   All along campus, about a three minute walk apart, are little stands.  They sell candy, chips, cigarettes, and knick-nacks made out of beads.
There are tiny things that I notice too.  In the states, when you’re walking in the street and a car is coming at you, you move to the left.  Here, that gets in the car’s way.  Also, when you’re walking through campus or on a sidewalk in the states and you come across another person walking towards you, you move to the right.  Naturally, they move to the left here.
Food.  There are things that never change.  Like McDonalds.  KFC is actually really big here too.  But then there are the things missing from America.  Like Indian food and Naindoos (a chicken place). And America needs to steal the recipe of Iron Brew and get it in the states. I can’t describe this drink.  It’s so unique in taste. One of my good friends asked me to bring back the best candy, and I wish I could bring back this soda instead.  Large amounts of it.  A lot of people here don’t like it, but all of the Americans on my program are in love.
The trees are out of this world.  I don’t know if South African trees are mountain-like jungle trees or a jungle-like mountain trees.  But they are both.  A part of the tree is a type of tree I would find in Colorado and the other part reminds me of a tree from the lion king.  And monkeys roam around in them.  I really like the trees here.
My favorite cultural difference is the language.  We all speak English, but obviously it’s not the same.  The simple way to put it: Americans are lazy.  In the states it would be common for a college student to say, “When are the other kids showing up?” if you’re waiting for friends to arrive.  As a college student, they clearly aren’t “kids” anymore, but we will often use that term.  When I first said that here the response was, “What kids?”  Likewise, we all go to “school” in America.  It doesn’t matter what grade you’re in, you’re in school.  I was shocked when I first asked, “Do you go to the school?” And the response was, “No, I go to the Varsity,” their other word for University.  Here, a school is a place where children go.
People are very friendly in South Africa.   It’s common to hug people when you first meet them.  It’s also common for you to get stopped by strangers who just want to say hello and ask how you are.  It’s refreshing in comparison to the States were life is too busy to have time to stop someone you don’t know in the street.
Sarah Caulkins, DUSA Blogger