A Tale of Three Conferences

Over the past two weeks, I have attended three extremely different conferences as part of my internship at l’Association des juristes sénégalaises (AJS). Each experience has been vastly unique from one another and taught me something new about the policymaking and advocacy processes in Senegal. 

The first conference I attended was held at one of the fancy business hotels in Senegal, the Hotel de Noom. This conference was about integrating the Maputo Protocol into Senegal’s national law in order to make it legal for a medical abortion—abortion in the case of rape, incest, danger to the life of the mother, or malformation of the fetus. As I walked up to the hotel, I was very grateful I had opted for my shiny black shoes I had worn in professional settings back in the U.S. Everyone else was wearing suits and ties and dresses and heels, and although my clothes were definitely not the same formal caliber, my shoes made me feel not completely out of place. 

I asked a member of the hotel staff where to find the conference I was attending, found the room, opened the door, and saw many of the AJS women I had been working with at the administrative office over the past few days. They welcomed me with smiles and told me to sit. People came in at a leisurely pace and began chatting with one another as I was instructed to take attendance and helped set up the posters of the participating organizations. 

And then we waited. And waited. The conference was supposed to start at 9:00am, but we did not get started until 10:40am. When the conference finally began, everyone presented themselves and then someone handed the microphone to me. For this conference, I had been instructed to help take notes to write the “rapport” (the summarizing report of the conference proceedings), so I wasn’t expecting to do much more than observe. However, I really appreciated them allowing me to participate! After I presented myself, the President of AJS explained that AJS takes on interns in order to expand their perspectives and help them learn new skills. I was so excited to see how the conference would go and how solutions would arise!

The first activity roughly translates to an “acknowledgement of values.” The facilitator guided the participants through the story of a girl named Mia, who was a victim of rape and died by suicide after she was unsuccessful in finding an abortion. The facilitator then asked the audience “What killed Mia?” Multiple men spoke up first and said it was the suicide, then a woman spoke up and said it was society. Afterwards, when the facilitator asked if Mia deserved to have a medical abortion in the case of rape, every single person said no because the law prohibited it. 

I completely disagreed! This was a discussion about values and what is morally right, not what is written in the law. In my opinion, they had all gotten the meaning behind the question wrong. 

Over the next two days, I listened to numerous presentations about the Maputo Protocol, how it has been used in court cases to further women’s rights, and how Benin and Rwanda integrated the Maputo Protocol into national law. There were also three workshops: one about problem identification, one about developing messages, and one about forming plans of action. The attendees were split into four groups: jurists, institutions, media, and socio-religious actors. I was invited to be the note-taker for the jurists group. 

Lawyers have a reputation of being incredibly nitpicky about word choice, and this exercise was no exception. I was told probably ten different things to write down, and every time I confirmed what they had just said, they had something they wanted to argue about and change. Furthermore, I simply do not have the French vocabulary for all of the technical language they were saying. At one point when I didn’t know a word yet again and the lawyer telling me to write seemed a little frustrated, I just said (in French): “I’m sorry! I’m an Anglophone, I don’t know this technical vocabulary in French.” He replied, “Oh really? I didn’t know! Here’s how you spell it.” And he was far nicer afterwards. 

When it came time to present our workshopping ideas, my group turned to me and told me to present in order to practice my French. I was a little nervous, of course, but honestly at this point I have been in so many uncomfortable situations in which I’ve had to speak French that it wasn’t bad at all. I just read what we had written and explained it a little, and that was all. I’m sure I made errors in my pronunciation and grammatical mistakes, but I don’t think I care all that much. I want my language to continue improving, but I am very proud of the place I have gotten to and the confidence I have in myself speaking French, even with mistakes.

I learned a lot from the conference and how these proceedings work, but I’m not sure how much actually got done. Sure, people came together to sit in a room and talk about the problem, but it didn’t really seem like any true plans of action were made. People came to talk and eat delicious food and be in a space with other important people, but I wondered what tangible progress was coming from this conference. I later spoke with the President of AJS and she told me that this is just how AJS and the policy process work. 

The second conference was only a day and was all about improving skills for communication with the media. In the morning, I listened to the presentations and people’s interjections, not really sure if I could participate. At one point, the facilitator was talking about social media and mentioned that everyone has TikTok! For reference, TikTok is immensely popular in Senegal. The number of times my host mom has been on TikTok at dinner or while hanging out with family is insane to me. I wanted to bring this up and talk about how my relationship with social media is far different and how social media has a far more negative stigma in the U.S., but I wasn’t sure if my interjection would be appreciated or not. 

While at lunch, I discovered I should have absolutely spoken up. Numerous people told me I could and should participate, so in the afternoon I did! In a conversation about the importance of presentation style and aesthetics, I spoke about how important that is for credibility in the U.S. If you have good content in the U.S. but it’s presented poorly, more often than not, you are not taken seriously. I was really proud of contributing even a small point such as that one, and decided to try to add more of my perspectives to conversations later on. 

The next day, I attended the third conference and it was completely different. In a suburb of Dakar called Bambilor, this conference was intended to raise awareness amongst women and their communities about the 2020 law that criminalized rape in Senegal. That’s right, rape has only been criminalized in Senegal for five years. And even with the current law, most instances of rape go unpunished. 

This conference was entirely in Wolof, so when it was time to present myself, I knew what language I had to do it in. Very nervously, I said in Wolof, “Salaam maalekum! Mangi tudd Cati. Ndongo américaine laa ak stagiare à l’AJS. Jërëjëf!” Meaning: “Hello! My name is Cati (my nickname in Senegal that is far easier to pronounce than Caitlin). I am an American student and an intern at AJS. Thank you!”

Oddly, I understood far more of the conference than I was anticipating. Although I was usually able to glean the general topic of conversation based on the few Wolof words I know and a few words they used in French, I was typically lost for more than that. However, my saving grace was that all of the slides were in French. I asked my supervisor why at the end of the conference. 

“No one here is alphabetised in Wolof,” she replied. I suddenly realized just how fundamentally flawed the current system was; in a Wolof oral culture, the laws were written in French. Even if the 2020 law had been translated into Wolof or Serer or Pulaar or another native language, the vast majority of the population could not read it. What was the solution, then? Talking. This conference was the sole method for women and their community to learn their legal rights. 

Discovering this made me realize this conference was about so much more than “just” talking. Even though some of the solutions seemed so obvious—calling the legal clinic, going to the police, going to the legal clinic in person if it was possible—many of the conference participants were just learning about these resources now. This conference suddenly seemed far more important than the conference the week prior in the swanky Noom hotel. 

I really enjoyed these experiences at the conferences but I hope to go visit the legal clinics soon. I am very excited to learn about how AJS conducts its on-the-ground work and hopefully be helpful in facilitating the process.

Ba ci kanam / À bientôt / See you soon, 

Caitlin

My Top Five Culture Shocks in Glasgow So Far (And How I Lived To Tell the Tale)

“Culture shock” is something I have heard at least once a day since starting my process to go abroad. It is no doubt a very real thing, yet I underestimated all the very small, niche differences I would encounter daily. I have decided to compile my top five culture shocks I have experienced in Glasgow and some tips on how to overcome them.

Enjoy! 

Ice, more specifically, the lack thereof:

Starting with my not-so-favorite as someone who likes to start every morning with an iced coffee. It truly baffled me how uncommon it is for people to have iced drinks, but it is completely true. Most menus in cafes will have ice in small print at the very bottom, and you’re lucky if they even offer it half the time. My favorite coffee place on campus is right by all my classes, but I have just below a 50% success rate of them actually having ice on any given day. 

This also continues in restaurants, where they will bring lukewarm water to your table and think nothing else of it. Ice is just not all that common here, which has made me realize how much I use it in my daily life. I never considered myself someone who needs ice, but I guess I really do. 

My tip here is simple: get yourself at least one ice tray. I use mine every single day for my water bottle and any other drinks I bring back to my flat. Also, on a semi-similar note, get used to paper straws because you will not see a plastic one at all while you are here. You have to drink everything really fast before they give up on you and collapse. 

Crosswalks and drivers:

Since my first day here, I have noticed how insane some drivers can be in Glasgow. This could just be the fact that everything looks weird with people driving on the left side and the driver’s seat being on the right, but I truly feel people drive very fast and crazy here. 

I have to use many crosswalks every day to get to school, and there are about a dozen more once I get to campus. The crosswalks were intimidating to me at first, so I want to share my tips for ensuring your safety. 

When you get to a crosswalk, make sure you press the button and see the “WAIT” light turn bright. I have gotten to crosswalks too many times where the other people waiting haven’t pressed the button, and then wondered why there’s been a hundred light rotations where they couldn’t walk. 

After pressing the button, wait for the little red man to turn green (this can take a while sometimes, but it is worth the wait). Even if all the cars have stopped, do not go unless the figure is green. Again, cars seem to come out of nowhere, and sometimes I feel like I don’t know where to look because everything is opposite, so always play it safe. I know this seems obvious, but it took me a while to get the hang of it.

Other than that, avoid jaywalking even though literally everyone else seems to do it. Cars far down the street may look like they are going slow, but can sneak up on you fast. Also, under no conditions should you ever take a step in the road without looking first. Why do so many people do that?! Anywhere you may need to go can wait an extra minute, I promise. 

The faucets:

I never thought I would have such strong emotions about a sink, but here we are. In my flat and many other public bathrooms I have been in, there are two faucets. The one on the left will give you hot water, the one on the right will give you cold. I don’t know why, but I know I hate it. 

This is a first-world problem, I’m fully aware. However, I like warm water, but that just isn’t an option here. When I need to wash my hands or do the dishes, I need to choose between freezing cold water or burning myself. I have tried the hot water too many times, but it just gets scalding hot after a few seconds and becomes unbearable, so I wash my hands and dishes in cold water. 

You’d think you could just turn both on and get a mix, but no. They are too far apart to even try to mix, so each hand just gets burnt or frozen. Unfortunately, I have no tips for this one. I’ve gotten used to it by now, and cold water is really good for your face, at least that’s what I tell myself every time I splash the freezing water onto my face in the morning. It really does wake you up! 

Revolving doors:

This one is funny to me because I have to be the only person who cares. There truly are revolving doors everywhere here. While it can be fun to sit there and watch crowds of people try to figure them out like they are the most confusing things in the world, it’s not as fun when you’re in that crowd. 

My main tip here would be to try your hardest to find a normal door, especially if you’re in a rush, because nobody seems to understand how these things work. If you have to use one and there’s a crowd, you need to be fearless. Just go for it because nobody else will. 

People will sit there forever trying to find the perfect time to make their escape, but there never is one. Just walk into it and you’ll be out before you know it. The actual scary part is the crowd of people that will be standing in front of it on the other side when you’re trying to get out. Unfortunately, you have to just push your way around them until they make you a path. Losing your momentum is the worst thing you can do. Don’t let them trap you! 

The sheer number of people that just stand there fascinates me, so if there’s anything you take from this, let it be how to use a revolving door properly. I swear there needs to be a class people can take for this. 

Restaurant etiquette:

Ending on a strong one, there are some shocking restaurant differences that trip me up every time I go out. First of all, many places expect you to just seat yourself. Considering how mad places get when you do this in America, I hate doing it. It feels so rude to me, but it isn’t here. I still stand there and wait for the hostess/servers to tell me to pick any seat, but it’s nice to be aware of this fact when you’re getting up from your table and other people just immediately sit down before you can even get out the door. 

Waiters are also very different in that they aren’t really waiters at all. They will take your order, give you your food, and then probably not check in on you or even look your direction until you wave them down if you need something. Again, this feels so rude to me, but it’s completely normal to call them over, and you are expected to when you want the bill. I have sat for too long in too many places waiting for them to come give me the check, and they never do. It is on you every time to tell them you are ready to leave. 

It can be nice to just be left alone to eat and talk, but it’s just really weird to get used to. 

Final Thoughts:

I could go on and on about the culture shocks I’ve experienced, and it hasn’t even been a month, but these ones really have stuck out to me and are ones I want people to be aware of if they plan on going to Glasgow or the UK in general.

Knowing these before arrival would have been nice, but learning and adjusting are all a part of the journey, and with how many other international students are here, I never once have been made to feel stupid or like I didn’t belong. 

Thanks for reading!