Making It Feel Normal

The “vacation” portion of my study abroad experience has sadly come to an end. I’ve just hit my first week of real classes, and after a not so peaceful course registration, I’m glad it’s over. Before all this, I thought I’d known the true depths of how difficult registration can be. Back at DU, failing to enroll for classes which are vital for your degree happens to almost everyone at least once. But, after having to learn and use multiple different course-lookup software, navigate three separate registration windows, and try my luck on a completely random lottery-based class enrollment system, I now realize that DU isn’t so bad after all. Well, after all of that, and after dropping my Japanese level because I’m not nearly as good as I thought, it’s over. At least it turned out okay. A few of my friends weren’t so lucky and accidentally signed up for classes held at Doshisha University’s other campus, an hour train ride away. No, they aren’t able to fix them. For me, I’m finally in a good position to relax and settle in. With this, the daunting reality of just how long I’ll be here for has been becoming increasingly apparent. Japan will be my home for the next four and a half months, and honestly, it’s scary. I’m the type of person who can never undervalue the importance of comfort. No, I don’t live inside my comfort zone, but when all the fun is over, and it’s time to come back, and it’s just me alone, I want to feel at home. For the past week I’d been feeling more and more uneasy because I wasn’t feeling comfort when I needed it. I felt temporary here, and I started missing my home, an ocean away. But slowly, I started making changes.

I started by buying a bike, which, serendipitously, made me feel better almost immediately. Not only did I get a killer deal, and can race to school blisteringly fast, but I also regained a sorely missed sense of freedom. In Denver, I used to bike everywhere, and it felt good being able to quickly go wherever, whenever. Now, here in Japan, it feels even better. Kyoto is extremely bikeable, and I’ve found a lot of joy in aimlessly wandering around with no real destination in mind. Whenever I start remembering that home is 6,000 miles away, I hop on my bike, and suddenly, it doesn’t feel so far away. But really, how good I started feeling from riding my bike again gave me the idea that I don’t need to miss my home, I can bring it here.

My 35$ bike, which I have since added a basket to

Next, and least excitingly, I changed how I buy groceries. Stay with me now. I promise saving money is cool. Back in Denver, I’d walk into a Safeway with savings on my mind, and B-line it straight for the bargain section. Then, I’d wander around, crouching down and squinting at various price tags, comparing each item’s dollar per ounce value, until BOOM. A deal. I’d walk out of the store with a smile on my face and some extra money in my pocket. Since moving to Japan, I’d been doing all my shopping at convenience stores like 7-Eleven and tiny little markets, where I couldn’t build an understanding of how much something should cost, and what a “good” price even is. It was stressful knowing how much money I wasn’t saving. Having a bike helped with this, as I can now easily get to much larger supermarkets, like the ones in America, where I can penny pinch to my heart’s content. What can I say, I’m a frugal guy.

Wagyu steaks, which I can compare the prices of, if I wanted to

But then, with these extra stacks burning holes in my pockets, I had to find a way to blow all the money I’d just worked so hard to save, and the best way I’ve found to burn money like it’s nothing is to pick up an expensive hobby, and there are few hobbies more expensive than bouldering. For those of you who don’t know, bouldering is basically a more technical version of the climbing wall at your local rec center from when you were a kid, only more pretentious. I used to boulder 3-4 times a week before I came to Japan, and feeling a rocky shaped hole in my heart and a wallet that was just a little too heavy, I had to pick it back up. I’d researched ahead of time what the bouldering scene is like here in Japan, so I knew I was in for a challenge. The specific classifications and difficulty grading scales in Japan are simply brutal, and in the interest of not getting sidetracked, I will now take us off track to explain them in great detail. Bouldering problems are like tiny little puzzles. Constricted to only using certain holds, you must figure out a way to solve the puzzle and climb to the top. Boulder problems are graded using the V Scale, where V0 is the easiest and V17 is basically impossible. V0–V2 is beginner level, V3–V6 is intermediate, V7–V10 is advanced, V11–V13 is pro territory, and V14+ means you’re one of the best in the world, and if you can climb a V17, you’re one of only a few on Earth. A month ago, I was climbing V4s and V5s, which means I was an intermediate level climber, far from the skill ceiling, but a ways away from where I started. However, in Japan, the V Scale has been notoriously pulled back about four stops. Over here, I’m struggling to climb V2s. Among the more advanced climbers, the technical term for struggling on V2s is called being bad at climbing. But, although I’ve been humbled, I’m glad to be back on the wall.

Bouldering gym upstairs
Bouldering gym downstairs

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, I’ve started making Matcha tea again. I got really into making Matcha back home, and given that Matcha was invented in Japan, the best Matcha is made in Japan, and that the Matcha capital of the world is only 20 minutes away from me, it was only a matter of time. The only problem with Matcha is that it’s not as simple as steeping a tea bag for two minutes and calling it a day. Matcha is a real man’s tea. It requires elbow grease, finesse, and buying an unreasonable number of supplies just to be able to make it. Surprisingly, despite being in the Matcha capital of the world, reasonably priced supplies are hard to come by. So, penny pinching, I turned to something that we all know and love: Amazon. There’s nothing more comforting than wanting, finding, then having something, all without leaving your house. So, after collecting all the necessary instruments, and using extremely high-quality ceremonial grade Matcha, I finally made my first batch. Expecting something revolutionary, and with prying eyes of various onlookers (making Matcha can create quite a scene in the communal kitchen), I eagerly took my first sip. It was awful. Downright terrible. I had accidently bought what I suspect is called super-diet oat milk, which tasted just like pulverized cardboard. I’ve since bought tastier oat milk, and my Matchas are turning out much better. I’ve been having fun experimenting with different ingredient ratios and techniques, and I plan on taking a Matcha-making class while I’m here, for the ultimate wisdom.

All of my Matcha stuff
Finished Matcha

In the end, I realized how important it is to take care of yourself, and listen to your own needs. The person with the ability to make you happier than anyone else is you, so you might as well do it.

In other news, I also took a trip to Osaka with a few friends, and experienced numerous amounts of sweet delights. Here are some photos.

Osaka Castle
Cherry blossoms around Osaka Castle
A large eel
A couple of silly seals
My friend Jesse with the ducks
Osaka Aquarium open water tank
Jesse with the jellyfish
All you can eat wagyu, for less than 35$
Jesse with the wagyu

The Allure and Awe of Travel

As an international person in Japan, I try to be incredibly conscious of my behaviors and actions so that I do not fit the stereotype of ‘gaijin’, or foreigner. My dorm is even in a heavily residential area of Kyoto, so I feel as though most of my time here so far has been less tourist and more resident. However, sometimes even the most devoted nationals want to encounter some popular tourist sites for a while. 

Since I haven’t been in class for about a month, my friends and I have been doing touristy trips alongside fun events for school, such as the club fair.

I have a few more days until classes start, so I thought I would share a recap of all of the adventures we have had so far since we will not have as much come school. Be warned, there’s a lot, so this post may be pretty long. I hope you still read, though!

Nanzenji, Heian, Nishiki

The first big trip/adventure my friends and I endeavored to was the Zen Buddhist Temple Nanzenji Shrine (南禅寺). We first arrived at around 3 p.m., luckily beating the big crowds. 

Immediately at arrival, there were already large temples surrounding us on both sides. As we walked through the shrine, temples and some of the prettiest sights I had ever encountered engulfed us from all directions. We eventually end up on a small bridge that overlooked the city and mountains. In the vast opening, a singular red Tori gate emerged through the concrete towers, existing as a small time capsule in very advanced infrastructure. 

We also paid for a ticket to see the Hojo Garden, which was probably the highlight of the trip. The admission ticket was ¥600, which is around $4, and we walked around the prepossessing Buddhist garden. Picture a small zen garden you may get at store, and that is essentially what it looked like. It was breathtaking. 

There were also incredibly interesting rooms and structures, but I was not allowed to take a picture of them, so you will have to use your imagination (so sorry!). 

And, funnily enough, we ended up stumbling on another famous temple. The Tori gate I mentioned earlier was actually the Heian-jingu (平安神宮), a famous Shinto shrine. We did not go inside, but we walked around the park and stopped at some of the booths at the small flea market that was happening in the greens. My friend Sophie even got some udon, a Japanese noodle dish, from a food stand. 

The end the day, we made our way to the Nishiki market, a collection of streets that have shops, restaurants, and very large crowds. We tried a bunch of new foods and treats, such as taiyaki (which is fish cake that is only shaped like a fish, filled with custard or another type of filling), sakura sake (which was actually pretty good!) and some other foods and treats like tempura, sushi, a yakitori (chicken skewers).

Fushimi Inari 

The next place we went to was the Fushimi Inari, which is arguably one of the more famous temples in Japan. Over 1300 years old, Fushimi Inari is known for its hundreds of Tori gates that don the mountainside. Not only are there hundreds of gates, but there are also 12,000 steps! Quite an amazing build, I think.

We made our way up the steps, stopping every few feet or so to get some pictures, take in the view, or just rest. I am definitely not the first person to say how breathtaking the views are from the mountainside, and I for sure won’t be the last. It was a bit cloudy on the day we went, but you could still see the city area of the region we had traveled to, along with the red line of gates traveling alongside the hills. 

As I am sure you could guess, there was a decently sized crowd at the shrines. As we first started walking, there was not a lot of room to walk due to the sheer amount of people going through. The further we got up to the top, though, the less crowded it became, making it easier to stop and take pictures. We did not make it all the way up, but we still made it a significant amount of the way. 

On our way down, we saw three different stray cats!! And, for everyone who knows me, they know that I am a huge fan of cats, so this was very exciting for me. We also saw some cherry blossoms blooming towards the bottom of the shrine, which was a beautiful end to the hike. 

Philosopher’s Path 

Philosopher’s Path, or sometimes called Philosopher’s Walk, is a well-known tourist spot for sakura viewing. My friends and I had tried to go a while back, but the flowers were not quite in bloom, so we went back again at peak sakura season for a 花見, or flower viewing. 

We got there around 2pm, and there were quite a bit of foreign tourists there, but we did not let that stop us from actively enjoying the flowers regardless. 

The path is a long trail alongside a river, surrounded by small cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops for the tourists who come visit. The blossoming sakura engulfed my camera lens, for I just couldn’t get enough of the almost mythical beauty that embraced me. 

We walked up and down the path a few times and then decided to go get dinner. We took a long walk, almost 30 minutes, down to the other side of town, only to see beautiful sights of the Kyoto mountains through this back-alley walkway. As the Robert Frost poem says, paraphrased of course, “the road less travelled makes all the difference”. We discovered a new trail, new sights, and a new shrine.

 I would have never been able to see the city in that perspective and gain a newfound appreciation for the city I am in if it wasn’t for going in blind. And for that I am incredibly thankful. 

OSAKA

The day after the philosopher’s path, we headed out to Osaka for a few days. 

Our first day was chiller than the rest. As we walked around downtown Osaka while we waited for our hotel check in time to arrive, we stumbled upon a small shrine, called the Tusyuno Tenjinja, which was the sight of a tragic love story. It is known as the ‘Lover’s Sanctuary’, for it is said to provide good luck in love and hosts a variety of love fortunes people can use to pray with. 

The name of Lover’s Sanctuary fit the shrine almost perfectly, for it had hearts and flowers adorned all around it. It was hidden in between big buildings, causing us to have almost missed it if we did not see the bright colored decorations peeking out behind the concrete. It was small, but it was definitely a shrine I am glad I didn’t miss. 

Later, we walked around our hotel for a bit and discovered a Lion Head shrine, which was called the Namba Yasaka Jinja. It stood out in front of the other architecture that surrounded it, which I thought was an enthralling sight. 

Osaka Castle, Takoyaki, and a Ferris Wheel

The next day was one of our busier, more touristy days. We started the day going to Osaka Castle 大阪城 and the museum. It was, again, surrounded by beautiful flower trees and provided us with an idyllic scene of the Springtime. And our admission price was not too bad either. Since we bought an Osaka day pass, we had a discount on our ticket, which was greatly appreciated. 

The moat around the castle alone was of an unfathomable size, for I hadn’t seen a historical monument quite that big before. But the castle itself was even bigger! I am a huge history nerd, so I enjoyed walking through the museum on the floors inside of the castle and learning about the history of the building I was standing in.

When we got up to the top of the 8 floors, there was an observatory deck we could look through. The park of the castle that had been preserved for centuries sat in the middle of tall, modern buildings, a green pond in an ocean of gray. I kept imagining myself walking around as a servant of some kind back in Sengoku period Japan and how it would have felt to live in somewhere so large without any of the current technology we have. 

Afterwards, we made our way to Dotonbori, which is like the Times Sqaure of Osaka. It has food, shopping, bars, and everything you could think of for a large red-light district. We went looking around for some street food and snacks. I ate a handmade stewed beef onigiri, a rice ball with stuffing and seaweed, and it was delicious. We got some sweet treats for cheaper prices, such as candied strawberries (tanghulu) for only ¥300 yen. 

Dotonbori can be overwhelming, especially if you go at a time where a lot of people are there, but it is definitely worth the visit if you want to experience Osaka’s speciality street food of takoyaki, small balls of minced octopus meat and vegetables cooked in a small pan, or want to go to karaoke at 3 am. 

We then left Dotonbori to go to the port where the Tempozan Ferris Wheel was located. This is the tallest Ferris wheel in Japan, and we could see most of the Umeda district and the bridges of Osaka from 112 meters (367 feet) up in the air. We got there a little late and were the last customers of the day, but they still let us up and we had a great time (so sorry to the workers!) 

New Worlds and New Plants

Our last full day in Osaka was equally just as fun. We went to a town called Shinsekai 新世界, or New World. It is made to represent post-war Osaka in the 1950s. We walked down the vintage streets, and I was in awe at the differences in architecture and decorations. It felt like I was a character in an old movie somehow. There is also a large tower in the middle of the area that we did not go into, but I did take a picture of it. 

Then we made our way to the Nagai Botanical Gardens 長居植物園, which was also a cheap trip due to our status as students. Our passes were only ¥200 with our student discount, and we could do both the gardens and the Natural History Museum. We were only interested in the gardens at that moment, though. 

The acclimation of Japanese and foreign plants made the gardens an intricate maze of nature I had ever seen. I have been to the botanic gardens in Denver before, but I enjoyed comparing the differences in plants available and the different types of experiences I had at both. We saw more sakura, as well as different flowers and trees that I hadn’t seen yet while in Japan, such as Baby Blue Eyes, a North American flower. It was a small taste of home in a brand new place I was starting to yearn for. 

Conclusion

There are still some things I left out of this post for the sake of length, but I have had the best time in Japan so far. Whether I am playing tourist, student, or gaijin, I have learned to appreciate the new culture around me. I will be living here until August, so I must make the most of it and embrace Japan the way it has embraced me.

Thanks for reading, and I will see you all with a new post next week!