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Existing Between Cultures

I’ve found that culture shock is more tricky than I imagined. It is a rope slipping through sweaty fingers; there are many moments when I think I’ve grasped it, only to realize it is slipping from me again, creating more tears and discomfort. This image isn’t particularly pleasant, but neither is the image of transformation!

When I first arrived, I didn’t feel anything that I thought I could label culture shock, so I was a little confused about what I was supposed to be feeling. Then, after some weeks, I thought culture shock was the intense discomfort that every day tasks required, and the desire to avoid even simple things, like going to a convenience store. Then, I thought that culture shock was the inability to read people’s personalities through a simultaneous cultural/language barrier. I couldn’t understand if people liked me or if they were just being polite, I didn’t know how to joke or receive jokes, and I didn’t know “what kind of person” anyone was because I could not use any familiar judgments or signals (which with time I realized is actually more positive than anything: I lost the ability to impose preconceived judgments onto people and began to see them with what felt like “fresh” eyes and an open mind). Along with this, I thought that culture shock was a feeling of loss- pieces of your personality, values, and humor, are all trapped in a cultural and linguistic limbo that cannot penetrate an air too thick for its narrowly defined edges.

But soon, I started to see myself from beyond the borders of my new memory, from which an entire ocean lies to cleanse, where my self is not a product of an eternal essence belonging to me, but a wet piece of clay that has been dredged from its bed and lovingly molded anew in the warmth of movement. I have always equated my “greatness,” or the pursuit of it, to an expense, a cost, or a sacrifice. I did not see how much of my self was sunken into my environment- the river refracted the light- until I could finally see how the river carved the bank from above its surface, now sizzling upon a yellow boulder under the sun. My origin definite, but my shape’s formation reliant on its relative position.

From the bed of the river, it was impossible to see how much my notion of self and happiness were steeped in liberalism and the desire for expedition. I’ve never seen myself as a staunch individualist, but from the boulder, I realize that I am accustomed to taking more than I give- that what can make me great is different from what makes me happy. My future isn’t as clear to me anymore.

Culture shock is solidifying to me that change is pain. Every day, I think I finally understand what I was told about this experience, and how hard it could be, but I am always proved wrong in ways I couldn’t even imagine! It excites me to think of what else there is to hold up and turn under the sun, to see in a new light. I have never felt so estranged from myself and yet so close to that something that has been waiting for me to finally turn around and greet it.

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View from a hotel in Osaka
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My 21st birthday at Sanzen-In Temple, Ohara

First Week in Kyoto

Traveling from Tokyo to Kyoto was more of a hassle than I expected, especially with my luggage. I had to wait out the crowded JR line headed towards the city center, the trains of which were packed so full that as its cars whizzed by on the platform, it was normal to see a pale palm splayed against the window, belonging to the unlucky traveler who was cornered face-first into the door during the morning rush. When I finally found a slightly less crowded car, in which I could fit my suitcases and myself, I was able to make my way to Tokyo Station, where I was going to board the shinkansen (also known as the bullet train).

On the shinkansen, my reserved seat was in the aisle, where I had to awkwardly bend my legs in front of my luggage, so as not to crowd the walkway. The man sitting to my left had the window seat. He was a business man, probably traveling to Osaka for a meeting of sorts. We smiled and exchanged niceties when he had to wait for me to clear my bags away so he could reach his seat, but about twenty minutes into the fast-paced ride, he noticed my eagerness to see out the window, and probably my apparent newness to the country itself. He kindly switched seats with me so that I could see the view of the ocean and rolling seaside hills, and even got my attention when we passed Mount Fuji so that I could see it from the other windows.

When I was finally done traveling on the local train lines after arriving in Kyoto and about to ascend my last subway exit stairs before reaching my dorm, my luggage in each hand and my face once again red and sweaty and partially disoriented from all the travel, a woman passing by offered to help me carry my bags up the stairs. We each took the handle with one hand and lugged it up three flights, laughing when we realized how much further we had to go, and alleviating the weight by reassuring ourselves, “almost there!” Despite the physical burden and mental exhaustion from traveling on subway trains all day, the kindness of these two strangers carried my hope with me to Kyoto on an air light with possibility.

I am getting settled in here, and finally starting to feel like I am a student, not merely a tourist. Grocery shopping is much harder when you aren’t familiar with all the ingredients. Yet, the unknown of even the small obstacles of daily life is leaving me with a sense of curiosity and acceptance of my seemingly constant and inevitable discomfort. When deciding to study abroad, I wanted to prepare myself for boredom and loneliness as much as I could. I didn’t know how well I would be able to make friends, so I told myself that no matter how I felt, I would do things on my own. Even if I couldn’t make a single friend here, I would befriend my new self. I have been visiting a few temples on my own, which are incredibly solid in their abundant numbers in this city; many times I have ridden my bike (purchased second-hand from another exchange student who was leaving) around the city and come across a large shrine or temple, which I spontaneously pulled over to see. On these days, when I am alone and exploring, I do not speak aloud for hours. It is new to me how hungry my eyes can be and how satisfied my lips have been to be closed all day. Yet, I’ve made good friends in my dorm. We’ve made plans to visit various cafes and sweet shops around the city and campus. There is a strong sense of community in my dorm, which is relieving to feel after planning for the possibility of intense loneliness for so long.

Kyoto is a lovely, green city, dripping with golden light even on the rainy days when the sakuras are late to bloom and the clouds graze the mountains with their gentle tendrils of mist. There is a river, Kamogawa, which runs through the heart of the city, along which people bike and run and stroll quietly, or children jump across the stone crossings, or couples snap pictures of the plentiful herons cautiously striding through the shallow current. A man sat on a bench in the late afternoon among the yellow grass, serenading one of the many humming waterfalls of Kamogawa with his saxophone. It seems there is always something to bring my mind back to the minor wonders around me, even as my sight briefly passes this city in its long trajectory of time.

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