history – Page 2 – DU Abroad

When I was registering for classes at UCC over the summer, I was really intrigued by the possibility of taking an archaeology class. This kind of course is (mostly) not accessible in the U.S and I’ve always been interested in learning about the way people lived hundreds of years ago. The specific class I registered for covers archaeology in the later medieval period of Ireland- it’s a crash-course about both Gaelic and Anglo-Norman ways of life in Ireland from about 1150-1550 AD. As a bonus feature of the course, this past Saturday we went on a field trip to East Cork and Youghal (pronounced “yawl”), where castles and churches from the later medieval period still stand. We had several stops, and there were a few that really left an impression on me.

I. Conna Castle, East Cork

Irish castles are extremely unique because they don’t tend to follow the traditional structure we picture when we think of castles. Instead, they are mostly stone towers that- out of necessity- were primarily defensive in function due to hostilities with England. Many of these castles were strategically built on higher ground with stone quarries (for building) and a water source nearby, like Conna Castle. Unfortunately, a majority of these tower castles around Ireland are considered ruins, primarily because a lot of them do not have ceilings and, in general, they are extremely unstable. Conna Castle is a great representation of the functions of tower castles in the later medieval period, and it was an incredible experience to see it.

III. St. Mary’s Collegiate Church, Youghal

St. Mary’s Church is a really unique landmark in Youghal, County Cork. It’s almost an amalgamation of different period influences: later medieval, the Reformation, the Renaissance, and the Victorian Era. The most notable of these features is St. Mary’s ceiling: most of the wooden beams are original to the first church, carbon dated back to the 12th century. This is extremely remarkable because it is one of the only- if not the sole- surviving examples of later medieval church roofs. The rest of the church has been restored: the Reformation saw the installation of medieval replica tiles, the Renaissance saw the construction of renaissance-style tombs, and the Victorian Era introduced most of the stained glass throughout the church. While St. Mary’s is not a perfect preservation of the later medieval period, the parts of it that have survived have taught archaeologists a lot about church construction during the period. The church itself is extraordinary.

The Youghal city wall was constructed around the church, some of it original to the later medieval period while other parts are the conservation attempts of the Victorians. While up on the city wall, you can see out over the church grounds and onto the water.

I am so glad that I stepped out of my comfort zone to take this archaeology class. Not only am I learning so much about the architecture of later medieval Ireland, I’m also gaining knowledge about the way of life during the period. My overall goal with my courses was to be able to learn as much about Ireland as I can- past and present- and I feel like I’m really connecting to its origins.

Whichever country you travel to or study in, there are things to do every day and every night. You aren’t local to the city or country and there are a million and one things that you want to see before you fly back to your hometown. Historical attractions during the day, good food in the evenings, and drinks to enjoy while discovering a new local nightlife scene. When we rush to do everything at once, we aren’t really giving time to understand the culture or people around us.

Tourists and travelers experience new environments differently. Tourists experience the location as an outsider, travelers enjoy it as if they were local, trying to find what is included in the daily life of people who call the city home. Studying abroad calls for you to embrace your host country as a traveler. I feel like Brno has been the perfect place to take that role. First of all, it’s not Prague. It’s a more authentic slice of Czech life, the language is practically essential here, and the Czechs here definitely enjoy their days at a relaxed pace.

Even though I am guilty of making a Brno Bucket list, I had locals approve it and add spots that they say are worth checking out as well. I also have been taking the time to walk around and visit places that don’t seem like tourist traps. As of right now, that’s included so many cafes, kebab restaurants, and moments sitting on lawns. I’ve found my way into the different grocery stores (Lidl is probably my favorite) and into second-hand shops. But I have gone to some of the more tourist attractions as we were given vouchers from a student club.

I’ve visited the Špilberk Castle, the Romani Culture Museum, and the Ossuary below St. James and explored the city center that houses many historical figures and sights.

ESN voucher exploration of Brno’s history & cultural influences — Top row: 1. Spilberk Castle in Brno, Czech Republic. 2. From the entrance of the Casemate prison. 3. First room of the Romani Culture Museum. 4. Skulls arranged in rows of the Ossuary below St. James Church. Bottom row: 5. Outside of the casemates within castle grounds. 6. Romani Museum’s dedication to film & media portrayal. 7. Installation of musical instruments in the Romani museum. 8. Skulls and bones are stacked as a wall in the ossuary.

The Moravian Castle, a fortress on a hill, was built during the 13th century and acted as a prison for about 200 years. I toured the casements during my visit which were the home to many torture devices, serious criminals, and political prisoners. During the Nazi Occupation of the country, the prisons were occupied by Czech patriots. There is definitely a sinister feeling floating around the casemates still.

The Romani Culture Museum holds the eerie yet vibrant history of the Roma people, who have faced endless prosecution. In the US, the Roma are still often referred to as “Gypsy” people, which is a racial slur because of the oppressive context it was used in historically. They are a group of people who have still not found a way to escape the hate against them, even when assimilated into communities. During Nazi occupation, they were a group that was highly targeted and taken to concentration camps. During Communism, they remained a segregated minority. Even though the Roma have an extensive history with the land of Bohemia and Moravia, they are regarded as being the “unwanted Europeans,” with nearly 90% of Roma people living below the poverty line.

At the Ossuary, you venture below the Church of St. James to visit the underground chamber graves where over 50,000 bodies were believed to be buried. When the bodies were originally buried they were left for 10-12 years before they would be moved into the Ossuary. This religious site has the 2nd largest Ossuary in Europe, and many of its occupants were victims of plague and cholera. One of the chambers still had the Catholic bones arranged in the exact way it was found, remaining untouched. Even though the Czech Republic is an atheist majority, the rediscovery of the Ossuary below the Church in 2001 was a significant experience in the history of the city’s ever-growing population.

All well-known sights and all building up to the culture that the people of Brno experience.

Mendel Quote — Gregor Johann Mendel quote & art within the city center. “To live without experiencing some shame and blushes of admiration would surely be a wretched life.” Mendel is a very important historical character in Brno, even having a square named after him.

The Czech Republic’s history is different than our own in the U.S., with people still alive who experienced the communist regime of the Soviets when it was known as the Czechoslovak Republic. This being said, the Soviet regime was put in place right after the Nazi occupation. It wasn’t until 1989 that they were free from the kind of government and propaganda that fueled the regime. Those with that firsthand experience are stereotypically more closed off and straightforward, and honestly said to be more racist by those 30 and younger who only learned of the harsh history through their older family members and school. Some of my classmates who are Czech have admitted that there is a lot of hypocrisy over racial issues, where some act like the United States is the only offender even though racist presence exists here and everywhere. I feel as if diving into some of the history of the Czech Republic has helped me understand some of the cultural norms and ideologies that linger from it. The local culture here is interesting, and Brno is a diverse place as Masaryk is a very large school for international students to attend and there are many unique personalities within the city.

Tag: history

East Cork and Youghal

Walk through Czech Culture