Listen to Your Locals!

Independence and self-reliance are two qualities I’ve valued for as long as I can remember. Today, I like to consider myself to have a decent amount of both. I was raised by a mom who always encouraged me to make my own decisions and gave me the responsibility of acting on them. With her careful guidance in discovering my own judgment, I feel very secure in the choices I make and the person I am today. However, as a side-effect, I suffer from a severe case of “I can do it myself” syndrome. This isn’t usually a problem and is enjoyable in most cases– such as picking up new hobbies. I’ve taught myself to crochet, skateboard, paint, and right now I’m trying to figure out the guitar. I like it this way and it’s always worked out– but that changed the moment I emerged from the Casablanca airport, and falsely gave my capabilities more credit than they deserved. My self-reliance has always been defined by American standards, and the fact that I wasn’t living in the U.S. anymore changed that definition.

The first moment of realization came when we were planning a weekend trip to Chefchaouen. Known as the Blue City, it’s nestled within the Atlas Mountains and awkwardly situated away from major roads, rail stations, or convenient bus routes. My roommates—Anna, Jaci, and I (Hi!! They read my blog)—took charge of planning transportation, organizing tickets and transfers, and getting everything under control.

Some pictures from our excursion to Rabat!

Luckily, we hadn’t made any purchases before mentioning our plans to one of our program directors, Oussama. His reaction was not what we expected: “Are you joking?!” he asked, disbelief plastered on his face.

…Not exactly the response we wanted. But this also meant Oussama had a simple, not-complicated-at-all solution to our problem, right? Wow! We were silly for not seeing it sooner!

Wrong. As it turned out, the best way to get to Chefchaouen from Meknes was also complex—and something we couldn’t have figured out on our own: a series of public taxis from one station to another. And then another. We had dismissed the idea of taxis early on, assuming they were too expensive based on pre-booked private taxi prices. But by following Oussama’s advice, we reached our destination without breaking the bank.

Transportation became another hot topic of discussion during my voyage from Meknes to Madrid. I love living in Meknes, and my only issue with the city is that we don’t have an airport. If we want to fly, we must take a train to another city: one hour to Fes, two hours to Rabat, or four to Tanger. So, here I was, on the train to the Rabat airport when I got a text from Jaci: “I don’t know what your plan is, but Hamid (our Arabic professor) says you should get off at Salé Ville (Rabat’s sister city across the river) because it’s closer to the airport than going all the way to Rabat.” Unsurprisingly, Hamid did me a huge favor. Not only are Rabat taxis more expensive in general, but Salé was, in fact, significantly closer to the airport. I ended up paying 30 Moroccan Dirhams (~$3 USD) rather than 100-150, solely because I got off the train one stop earlier. Once again, I would never have thought to stop at Salé to get to the Rabat airport– but a Moroccan would!

I finally learned my lesson while trying to plan my weekend solo-trip to Essaouira (which I intend to write about shortly). Traveling by myself was a new idea to me, and I was excited by the independence and spontaneity that it proposed. I was going to choose what I wanted to do without any input from anyone else, because isn’t that what solo-travel is all about? I searched through blogs, articles, and AI-generated lists for the perfect Essaouira itinerary, but what I found was obsolete to me. Every option was either a.) an activity common to all Moroccan cities:

Madrid recap– I’d love to go back and see more of the museums, architecture and beauty that it’s known for!
  • Walk around the medina
  • Go to a traditional Moroccan hammam
  • Eat Moroccan foods

 or b.) expensive:

  • Book a camel ride
  • Take surfing or kite-surfing lessons
  • Wine-tasting at the Val d’Argan vineyard
  • Join a guided tour

While I love exploring the medinas, souks, and markets of different cities, I really wanted to experience everything unique to THIS city. I did cave and pay for a surfing lesson, but that occupied a significant percentage of my budget. I became frustrated because I knew why these were the only options showing up: I was searching in English and reading American/European blogs. They were directed at tourists only visiting one or two Moroccan cities on vacation, not for a student who’d been here for nearly three months. These itineraries are created to represent, not just the city, but Morocco as a whole. This is when I remembered that Essaouira is one of Oussama’s absolute favorite places, so I resolved to ask him. He was more than happy to help, and sent me a list of his favorite sights, live music, restaurants, and places to watch the sunset. I am incredibly thankful for his advice, and that I’d thought to ask for it.

I keep having to remind myself that independence doesn’t mean refusing help. Of course I knew that– its a lesson we’ve all been taught since elementary school– but tangible applications have made that lesson a lot more real. I’ve found that my values as an individual conflict heavily with the main purpose of studying abroad. I can’t fully embrace a different culture while ignoring the wisdom of those most familiar with it. Not only have I learned a lot about Morocco through this realization, but I’ve also learned about myself. Recognizing when I need help is another form of self-reliance, one I now aspire to cultivate. Even when I return to the U.S., where I’m more comfortable and knowledgeable, I want to keep pushing my ego aside and accepting help when needed. If you know me, you’re probably laughing at this because you know how much I struggle with it. But the truth is, asking for help doesn’t mean I’m losing my independence—it means I’m human.

Parisian Perfection

Oh. My. GOODNESS.

Little Gwen would be absolutely freaking out right now if she knew she was writing a blog about having visited PARIS! 

Last weekend, I visited the iconic city in France with my dad. It was wonderful to see him after having been away from home for so long (especially since he brought me a lot of American snacks). I flew AirFrance for the first time and got a little madeline as my in-flight snack (it was lovely). Upon arrival I met my father in the airport and we were off! After settling into our hotel and having a nap my dad and I headed in search of food. In this blog I want to share some highlights of where to eat and what to see when visiting this iconic city, the city of my dreams…

L’Escargot! 

When in Paris you of course have to try escargot! In this cute little restaurant tucked away in Les Halles, you are welcomed with warm french onion soup and bone marrow, but you come for the snails. This was my first time trying escargot, so I got a mixed plate with two traditional flavored (parsley and garlic), two truffles, and two foie gras snails. You eat them with snail tongs, which are so fun to grab the shell with, and are given a little fork to dig the meat out. They are a little chewy, but honestly delicious, it was like I was eating a ball of garlic butter. Quite the experience. We also paired this meal and most others with a glass of wine (white for me). It’s so fun to finally be 21 and able to try pairing wine with various meals, especially in Paris. My dad also ordered this soft chicken breast cooked with these sweet, chewy dates. It was to die for. The restaurant had a very warm, homey vibe, and a giant snail statue on top of the entrance. So cute. 

Notre Dame + Shakespeare & Company 

After lunch we went to explore more of Paris and stopped by Notre Dame. It was incredible to see how they have been working so hard to reconstruct the famous cathedral after the fire in 2019. It finally re-opens for the public again in December, I can’t wait! Right across the street is a bookshop I have seen all over the internet called “Shakespeare & Company”. It’s a now-famous little store, cluttered with books and pictures of various authors. It’s so warm and cozy, almost Harry Potter-esc with cramped little staircases. You’re not allowed to take pictures inside, but that really allowed me to enjoy the ambience of it all. I bought two books, each stamped with the famous ink design of Shakespeare’s head from the book store. After a little further exploration of the city at night, we polished off some crepes before heading to bed. You’re not doing Paris right if you don’t have a Nutella crepe!

The Louvre & Les Deux Magots

Of course we got tickets to the iconic Louvre. I’m going to give y’all a tip, when visiting the Louvre, pace yourself! I knew how big it was, but two hours just flew by. We were able to get through the Denon and Sully wings, and of course saw the Mona Lisa after pursuing the Tuileries Garden just outside that morning. It was so special for me, as the Louvre was one of the many places my parents got to visit on their honeymoon. My favorite exhibit had to be the Egyptian rooms, or the sculpture hall. I have always had a deep affinity for marble statues, there is just something so regal about them. The room was covered by a glass ceiling, allowing light to filter through and give the room this gorgeous white glow. Despite our three days there being gloomy and gross, Paris was still as beautiful as ever. 

Let me just say after a full morning/afternoon running around at the Louvre we were famished! We originally intended on another restaurant, but upon discovering it was closed, we improvised. What a lovely improvisation it was! My dad and I ended up at Les Deux Magots, a café on the corner of Saint-Germain-Des-Prés. Apparently, it was once a place the literary elite pursued in Paris, with writers like Earnest Hemmingway and Surrealist artists having eaten there. Glad we didn’t end up at the intended spot! Now I get to say I ate in the same place as Hemmingway! I also finally got to try one of the many items on my French cuisine bucket list: beef tartare! I have to say I was wary of trying this dish (It is raw meat after all) and I was pleasantly surprised! It was particularly chewy, but had a delightful flavor. My father got a salmon sandwich and fries, and we ended it all with a chocolate mousse (another french food bucket list item). 

That night we intended to check out the Opera House, but upon discovering it was closed we decided to enter the Galeries Lafayette, climb to the top and see the Eiffel Tower at night (what a treat). We ended the evening at a French bistrot near our hotel and I got beef stew with carrots (DELISH!). 

Le Relais de l’Entrecôte & Arc de Triomphe

After a morning once again enjoying the iconic Tower Eiffel (and taking lots of pictures), we decided to head to Le Relais de l’Entrecôte. Located on the corner of Rue Marbeuf street, this little restaurant stirs up quite the buzz. You have to get there right before they open and already there will be a line out the door. You’re ushered inside, welcomed by the red and gold decor. They fill as many tables as they can before locking the door. The restaurant was so crowded we ended up getting to make friends with our unintentional table mates. What makes this restaurant so special is that they serve one thing: entrecôte and fries, which is a specially cut beef. They’re perfected this recipe over centuries. They start you off with a side salad and wine before presenting you with the famous dish. The steak was cooked to perfection, covered in a special mustard sauce. The fries were warm and crispy (I swear there is nothing in the world like a good french fry), and once you finish they pile your plate with a second helping of both before offering dessert. I paired my meal with a red wine this time, classic for a steak. I was so excited to eat here, not only do I love steak and fries, but this was one of the restaurants my parents ate at on their honeymoon, so it was extra special to me. 

After that we decided to walk it all off by visiting the Arc de Triomphe. I had no idea what to expect, and it was certainly not a very tall, very long spiral staircase that made me a little dizzy, but let me tell you the climb was worth it! The views of Paris from the top of the Arc were breathtaking. You can see all the streets of Paris perfectly, all the way down Champs-Élysées to the Louvre, every iconic symbol and carefully crafted architectural building. The Arc was crafted to honor those who fied for France during the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars, with names of all the French victories and generals inscribed on the inner and outer surfaces; it was such a beautiful memorial to see. Safe to say it has some of the best views in France!

Musée Marmottan Monet & Burgers

Of course I had to see some Monet paintings when in Paris! Exhibited in an old Empire-style decorated townhouse once owned by Paul Marmottan, there are many of Claude Monet’s works there. It’s adorable, pink and blue walls enhanced by careful gold trim, full of a vast variety of some of my favorite paintings by my favorite artist. I would have loved to live in a house like that one back in the day, it made me feel like I was in Bridgerton. They also had the most peculiar and interesting paintings by Jean Francois de le Motte and Gaspard Gresly, artists famous for their hyper-realistic pieces. I love a painting that makes me feel as if I can reach out and grab whatever is there. My dad and I ended the night at another bistrot near our hotel and I couldn’t decide what to get so we settled on a safer option: burgers! One of the best ones I’ve ever had in my life at that. For dessert: crème brûlée and tirimisu. What a dream.

Hot Cocoa & Familiar Faces

Our last morning there my father had left before me to catch an early flight, and I decided to grab breakfast in the lobby with a dear friend of mine from camp I hadn’t seen in over four years. She’s been living in Paris for about two years now and has never been happier. We got to catch up over croissants (of which I had at least one a day-no joke I can live off of them for the rest of my life) and coffee. One day she’s going to be one of the best opera singers in Paris, I just know it. Right before my flight she offered to show me around Bastille and I treated us to some warm hot chocolate. Hot chocolate in France is just on another level of deliciousness. It was not overly sweet, just the right amount of warm and comforting, exactly what I needed when it started to drizzle.

With a tearful goodbye I headed off to the airport. Paris, you were delicious and beautiful and I simply cannot wait to go back.

Agur!

-GM ❤