Walk through Czech Culture

Whichever country you travel to or study in, there are things to do every day and every night. You aren’t local to the city or country and there are a million and one things that you want to see before you fly back to your hometown. Historical attractions during the day, good food in the evenings, and drinks to enjoy while discovering a new local nightlife scene. When we rush to do everything at once, we aren’t really giving time to understand the culture or people around us.

Tourists and travelers experience new environments differently. Tourists experience the location as an outsider, travelers enjoy it as if they were local, trying to find what is included in the daily life of people who call the city home. Studying abroad calls for you to embrace your host country as a traveler. I feel like Brno has been the perfect place to take that role. First of all, it’s not Prague. It’s a more authentic slice of Czech life, the language is practically essential here, and the Czechs here definitely enjoy their days at a relaxed pace.

Even though I am guilty of making a Brno Bucket list, I had locals approve it and add spots that they say are worth checking out as well. I also have been taking the time to walk around and visit places that don’t seem like tourist traps. As of right now, that’s included so many cafes, kebab restaurants, and moments sitting on lawns. I’ve found my way into the different grocery stores (Lidl is probably my favorite) and into second-hand shops. But I have gone to some of the more tourist attractions as we were given vouchers from a student club.

I’ve visited the Špilberk Castle, the Romani Culture Museum, and the Ossuary below St. James and explored the city center that houses many historical figures and sights. 

ESN voucher exploration of Brno’s history & cultural influences
Top row: 1. Spilberk Castle in Brno, Czech Republic. 2. From the entrance of the Casemate prison. 3. First room of the Romani Culture Museum. 4. Skulls arranged in rows of the Ossuary below St. James Church. Bottom row: 5. Outside of the casemates within castle grounds. 6. Romani Museum’s dedication to film & media portrayal. 7. Installation of musical instruments in the Romani museum. 8. Skulls and bones are stacked as a wall in the ossuary.

The Moravian Castle, a fortress on a hill, was built during the 13th century and acted as a prison for about 200 years. I toured the casements during my visit which were the home to many torture devices, serious criminals, and political prisoners. During the Nazi Occupation of the country, the prisons were occupied by Czech patriots. There is definitely a sinister feeling floating around the casemates still. 

The Romani Culture Museum holds the eerie yet vibrant history of the Roma people, who have faced endless prosecution. In the US, the Roma are still often referred to as “Gypsy” people, which is a racial slur because of the oppressive context it was used in historically. They are a group of people who have still not found a way to escape the hate against them, even when assimilated into communities. During Nazi occupation, they were a group that was highly targeted and taken to concentration camps. During Communism, they remained a segregated minority. Even though the Roma have an extensive history with the land of Bohemia and Moravia, they are regarded as being the “unwanted Europeans,” with nearly 90% of Roma people living below the poverty line. 

At the Ossuary, you venture below the Church of St. James to visit the underground chamber graves where over 50,000 bodies were believed to be buried. When the bodies were originally buried they were left for 10-12 years before they would be moved into the Ossuary. This religious site has the 2nd largest Ossuary in Europe, and many of its occupants were victims of plague and cholera. One of the chambers still had the Catholic bones arranged in the exact way it was found, remaining untouched. Even though the Czech Republic is an atheist majority, the rediscovery of the Ossuary below the Church in 2001 was a significant experience in the history of the city’s ever-growing population.

All well-known sights and all building up to the culture that the people of Brno experience.

Mendel Quote
Gregor Johann Mendel quote & art within the city center. “To live without experiencing some shame and blushes of admiration would surely be a wretched life.” Mendel is a very important historical character in Brno, even having a square named after him.

The Czech Republic’s history is different than our own in the U.S., with people still alive who experienced the communist regime of the Soviets when it was known as the Czechoslovak Republic. This being said, the Soviet regime was put in place right after the Nazi occupation. It wasn’t until 1989 that they were free from the kind of government and propaganda that fueled the regime. Those with that firsthand experience are stereotypically more closed off and straightforward, and honestly said to be more racist by those 30 and younger who only learned of the harsh history through their older family members and school. Some of my classmates who are Czech have admitted that there is a lot of hypocrisy over racial issues, where some act like the United States is the only offender even though racist presence exists here and everywhere. I feel as if diving into some of the history of the Czech Republic has helped me understand some of the cultural norms and ideologies that linger from it. The local culture here is interesting, and Brno is a diverse place as Masaryk is a very large school for international students to attend and there are many unique personalities within the city.

Tangier, 100% Mamans

This week started early Sunday morning as we departed on an excursion to Tangier. Located on the most northern coast of Morocco the city is encapsulated with a rich history of foreign invasion since 400 AD and later perseverance from the Moroccan population.

The city of Tangier has come a long way from this period, which once had the reputation of being a sketchy, undesirable place for locals and tourists alike. Racked with the chaos of drug dealings and unorganized crime. However, since Sultan Moulay Ismail came to power in the late 1600s, rooting his legacy in the revival of Tangier a metamorphose has taken place. His break-off from British territory as the city has been transformed and the hard choices taken to get there cannot be understated. These acts of diplomacy on Ismail’s part were not only ahead of their time but so strategic they avoided the need for military or violent action all together. 

This history is prominent throughout the city, conveyed throughout architecture that stands from hundreds of years ago, to an economy that relies on tourism – which was not always the case due to its older reputation. 

While my program was there we spent most of our time visiting NGOs and getting a fuller idea of their missions within the city. To see the work that was being done by these organizations was truly inspiring, and one particularity stood out to me. 

NGO, 100% Maman, is based in Tangier and has had a massive impact on the community there. Fighting for the rights of single mothers, Maman’s goal is to reach a wide audience and develop the expertise to have single mothers seen positively in a post-modern, Middle Eastern society. Their technological range developed from multiple social media accounts to a podcast that can be streamed on most platforms where women can talk about their experiences with the law, their pregnancies, and how they found the organization. 

The creation of Maman however is not quite as uplifting yet inspiring all the same. Founded in 2006, there was a great need to advocate for women who were having children out of wedlock, instances of rape or incest. The law at that time stated that perpetrators could marry their victims (even against the victims’ wishes) and as a result be excluded from criminal punishment. A need for advocacy was strong as 100% Maman rose to the occasion. Through this organization and others like it advocating for more freedom from these laws progress has been made, but there is still much work to be done. 

Working primarily with single mothers and their children, 100% Maman provides housing for mothers, daycare, and education for children, and skills classes for mothers, and runs a full-scale catering company where many of the mothers that they work with are employed. Needless to say, this organization has created a flourishing micro-economy within the larger city. 

As we sat and talked with the administration of this non-profit many of us were moved to tears, the emotion that these women felt for their organization was at the forefront of every answered question and explanation.  

I spent the rest of the day reflecting on the place of privilege I was coming from and contrasting these oppressive laws to the pro-life/pro-choice dilemma currently underway in the States. There is so much freedom given to those in America that other systems of governing are often forgotten – this was a sharp reminder of how the rest of the world may be functioning. I hope to return to Tangier in November and learn more about 100% Maman, how we as students can aid the organization, and what other work must be done to gain these women the freedom they deserve.