Final backpacking trip – nov 2024
Hiking in Fiordland National Park was something that I had been wanting to do the entire time I was in NZ, and it finally happened near the end of my time there! Myself and four other embarked on a 43-mile loop with 7500′ feet of elevation gain that took us through stunning scenery at every turn. It took us three and half days, which divided our days into 4 stints:
Day One: 6 miles from carpark to Mckeller hut
The first half day was not too bad as it was our shortest section and the weather was perfect. We got a good glimpse into what it would be walking for many miles at a time whilst holding food for three days. It was a new experience for me to be walking through the bush (forests) full of moss which covered everything around us. This area is known for having large levels of precipitation which makes it possible to have such moisture-dense bush. Most of the first day felt like we were walking through a wet, damp, and marshy rainforest, (the entire region had experienced a large rainstorm the day prior, so we also got a fair glimpse into what day two would be like which consisted of an entire day of heavy rain).
As I have mentioned in prior blogs, one of the more admirable parts of staying in NZ huts is meeting people from all over the world. We were very lucky to have been joined by a man named Tim. Tim was one of the most extraordinary people I was able to meet while traveling around the country. As we were eating an oversized dinner given we overpacked our food, Tim entered the hut. He was carrying an 85 liter pack, (mine is 55L for reference) and looked like he had just fought in a war. We walked for about 3 hours the first day, and Tim had just finished a day of being on his feet for 16 hours, 16 HOURS! He hiked to the top of a nearby a peak with some friends in the morning for sunrise, and then proceeded to walk another eight hours to the hut we had been staying at. Tim was a pack-rafter, which simply means he carries an inflatable boat in his backpack. To make matters more complicated, he pulled out a medical book to study for an exam he had coming up the following week. He works one week on, one week off in the medical field. He really did it all and inspired me in multiple ways. He loved his life and had no complaints whatsoever. He showed me that it really is possible to do what you love in and outside of work. An ode to Tim!
Day Two: 12 miles from Mckeller hut to Greenstone Hut
The second day of our trip was easily the worst, (but it was still amazing). From start to finish it was raining with temps around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. It was certainly manageable and we weren’t in genuine danger at any point, however I would rate the uncomfortability an 11/10. Walking 12 miles with soaked socks, boots, underwear, pants, shirt, jacket, and our entire body is not something I would recommend. Every step was gushy and watery. To add to the already humorous nature of our circumstances, one of the group members had forgotten his waterproof jacket, so he had to endure this entire journey in a poncho. The weather conditions had required us to be moving as much as possible, not only to get to the next hut has fast as we could, but primarily to stay warm given our drenched attire made it much colder.
We walked a majority of the time in an exposed valley, an extreme contrast to the day before. Although the conditions were sub-optimal, the 360 views were great! There was a low fog which made it rather eery. There were wild cows around us at some points which added to the element of being fully off the grid. About halfway through the journey we started to get passed by others on this trail who had decided to run half the loop that day (there was a parking lot on each side). The biggest hiccup that we faced that day was running into a section of trail that led us in a false direction. It took another group and ours about 15 minutes to find the trail again which was not enjoyable while standing in the cold, windy rain. We eventually just embraced the fact that we couldn’t avoid the puddles of water and started to walk directly through some knee-high portions of water. It was humbling but wasn’t all that bad once we started to treat it as a funny reality of our situation.
Day Three: 11 miles from Greenstone Hut to Mid Caples Hut
Day three was one of the best days I have ever experienced in my entire life, and I am not just saying that in a cliche manner for full effect. The rainstorm had passed, the sun was out, and the vibes of that day were remarkable. One of the other group members best described that day as the perfect, most optimal NZ experiences you could get. Bright green grass and bush at eye level, mossy trees and shrubbery, and snow capped mountains all around us. We walked through fields of sheep and cow with birds chirping the entire time. I have never felt such serenity in my life. We stopped for lunch and took a swim while soaking in the nature around us. There really is not much else to say. It was an ideal day full of fun yet productive conversations and mutual love for life.
Day Three: 13 miles from Mid Caples Hut to carpark
The last day was in theory a really good day, but it was overshadowed by the reality that we were all hurting in different places and ready to get back to our society given that some of the group had final exams the next day. We also knew going into the day that it would consist of the most elevation gain that we had experienced yet. It was about 3000′ of gain over 13 miles which wasn’t too bad, but it still added to the dampened energy of that final day. We were in the bush again for majority of the day which was nice. It did start to rain once we got to the highest point of elevation and there were flashbacks of day two. We did get fairly wet, but it was nothing in comparison.
Walking along the saddle was the highlight of the final day. There was a large section of boardwalk which was a new and exciting element that we hadn’t experienced yet. We were still surrounded by beautiful mountain peaks and unreal greenery. There came a point in that final day that we all became separated from each other. It was every man for themselves getting back to the car. The drive home was strange because we all knew this was the last adventure that we all were going to do together, most likely for the rest of our lives. It was filled with great music and two rainbows. It was a weird feeling being a part of that car ride, however I would not change a single thing about any of the trip. I may have not described the whole trip in the brightest light, but it truly was incredible. There isn’t much I enjoy more than being off the grid with people I love and having such free conversation, playing cards at dinner, and doing it all in beautiful parts of nature.
Pictures and videos below!
DU Abroad 