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The Reality of Being a Female Student in Morocco

As a disclaimer: in this post, I talk about gender in Moroccan society. I’m a short-term resident who is also a very visibly American woman. My experience will differ greatly from those of locals. What I write is entirely based on personal experience and observation through an American lens. This is not meant for informative or academic purposes. Specific Moroccan history, culture, and socio-political structures are too complex for me to wholly understand through observation alone. Keep in mind, also, that I’ve only been observing from the city I live in. This is a personal reflection, not a factual analysis of my host country.

Some pictures from a weekend getaway to Chefchaouen, also known as the “Blue City.” It’s a little difficult to access from Meknes, but it was well worth all our taxi struggles.

I made the choice to study abroad in Morocco completely on my own. It wasn’t part of any plan either. I simply found a program that seemed interesting and fit my academic needs. I’d been wanting to learn another language, so why not Arabic? It was the obvious choice, simple as that. I didn’t feel the need to share the process with friends and family until after I’d solidified my decision, so that choice was completely untouched by others’ opinions, which ended up being for the best. As it turns out, those opinions were very different from the ones I held. I received various reactions when revealing my plans, most of which expressed some form of concern for my safety or appearance. I had, of course, already considered my role as a woman when applying, but it wasn’t at the forefront of my mind until it was the subject of nearly every single reaction. “You know you can’t dress like that, right?”; “Don’t go anywhere without a man.”; “What’re you going to do about all that metal in your face?”; “Why would you choose somewhere like that?”; “You need to buy an entirely new wardrobe.”; “Do you need to wear a hijab?”; “How are you going to cover your tattoos?”

They all meant well, but now I was anxious and confused.

I was highly aware that these ideas are a little bizarre. I knew that I couldn’t wear crop tops or, and that there were no religious garments necessary. Still, the repeated comments seemed to suggest that I needed to entirely reinvent myself. Advisors and program staffed assured that, with precautions and common sense, I’d be safe. I also met with female ISA Meknes alumni who said the same. Still, facts and personal experiences were drowned in groundless worries and criticisms. I spent my summer obsessing over what I should look like, act like, and wear. I searched online for contemporary Moroccan fashion, but the results only presented various travel blogs and aesthetic Pinterest boards for tourist cities like Casablanca, Marrakech, or Fes. I think my frustration with a lack of answers added more fuel to those irrational fears.

Now, having been here for a month, I wish I’d spent my summer relaxing or studying French and Arabic. That would’ve been way more productive. People here have been friendly, and there’s less scrutiny of my behavior or appearance than I expected. The most judgmental looks I get from locals are when I describe the strict social rules we have in the United States. Acting or looking a certain way might get you some brief looks, but it’s no big deal. Conservative clothing is extremely important for cultural respect, but there’s far more flexibility depending on where you are. You could probably get away with wearing shorts or a tank top in tourist-heavy cities like Marrakech or Chefchaouen (although this is slightly disrespectful), but it’s very rare here in Meknes. Then there’s the subject of catcalling and street harassment. It happens, but for my friends and I, it’s been mostly stares or short remarks rather than anything aggressive or confrontational. Bad things happen, but those situations can be avoided. The need for caution, especially in unfamiliar surroundings, is like the caution needed in any major city back home. Add some intensity points for the language barrier, though.

This thought has me reflecting on other narratives I was fed prior to arrival, and so much of them can be applied to the U.S. as well. Aren’t we, as women, taught from a young age to be cautious? To dress “safely”? Not to walk alone at night? Don’t wear that, and don’t go there. Even if it’s wrong, it’s the norm that shapes our everyday decisions. Safety concerns for women lie everywhere, and neither the U.S. nor Morocco are the exception. Concerns for women vary from place to place, and the way they show themselves depends heavily on historical, cultural, and social context. Morocco has its form of gender disparities, and the United States has its own catalog of issues. So, who’s to say which is inherently better or worse? I think they’re too different to accurately compare. There are precautions that I take here, but none of them limit my experiences or make me feel restricted. That whole obsession with trying to reinvent myself? Total waste of time and money. Seriously. I could’ve invested those in planning a fun weekend trip or something.

I acknowledge that I fell into some prejudiced, Eurocentric views prior to departure. I’m a little ashamed, but I hope this message somehow reaches someone like me, whose genuine excitement got warped by other people’s negative stereotypes. If that other girl was in front of me right now as I’m writing this, I would grab her by the shoulders, shake her back to reality, then tell her to chill out. Then maybe we’d grab coffee or watch a movie or something. She seems cool and I think we’d be friends.

Long story short, if you’re a woman wanting to study abroad in Morocco, do it. While there are always precautions to take, it’s really no big deal, despite what others may tell you. I’ve really grown to adore this country, and I can’t imagine myself studying abroad anywhere else.

Move over Scarlet Letter, there is a new challenger

The Scarlet Letter

When reading the title of this post, you may ask what I am referring to. The Scarlet Letter is by far the hardest piece of literature that I have ever read. I dreaded reading it every day for my AP English class my sophomore year of high school. It was deep, dark, and just had too much wording to explain something so simple (a few sentences vs. a few pages). I thought nothing would ever top that piece of literature. That is, until I first got to Maastricht. When I first started by EU Law class, I was given a textbook and a reading list for when I needed to have certain chapter done by. I didn’t think of it much because every textbook that I have read in the past has been pretty straightforward. That is, until I started reading this particular textbook.

When first reading this textbook, I was flabbergasted at how complex EU law was and the history behind the EU. I thought US law and its processes was complex enough, but EU law was something else. That is what made the textbook so in-depth and complicated. I would spend hours sometimes just reading a chapter and it did not help that I had to read two chapters (ranging from 80-100 pages) a week. This actually had an impact on my schedule, particularly with the gym and frisbee practice. I had to skip most of my sessions just to finish reading these chapters. The note taking was not far behind. Every time I would take notes, I would get excited to turn a page only to dread when it was my notebook page and not a page in the book. I would be up until at least 1 am finishing the chapter depending on how much I procrastinated, or just took a break because that book exhausted me. I needed a lot of Starbucks to help me finish certain chapters of the book (the store nearby sold cartons of Iced Carmel Macchiatos).

Despite how tough the readings were, they helped out a lot and I was able to do very well on my midterm exam. After the exam, I thought the amount of reading I had to do would die down; I was so wrong. For the next 3 weeks, it was two chapters a class for two days a week. In addition, the second half of the class was all cases and application of what we learned in the first part to the second part of the class. In other words, the readings were longer and more complex, so that means more note taking and longer periods of time to finish the chapters. This part of the class was one of the hardest stretches of schooling that I have ever had. I had to put all of the non-schooling aspects of my life beside just to focus on the readings and to finish them on time. This included restructuring my gym plan and having to do full body workouts any time I could go to the gym (about two times a week during this stretch). It was a tough crunch, but I was able to make it work. However, at the end of every week, I was exhausted, too exhausted to even go out and let off some steam. I needed sleep, and because I only averaged about 5 hours every day, I often went to bed early on the weekends.

I just recently finished the textbook and I was overjoyed. The pain and stress were over. I was able to learn a great deal from it and now I have knowledge on the inter-mechanisms of the EU. Anyway, is this book my hardest read ever? Yes it is. Sorry Scarlet Letter, but there is a new holder of the hardest piece of literature I have ever read.