A tale of two cities

I’m arriving at the end of my time here in Buenos Aires, and I’ve been taking advantage of these final few weeks by traveling. Last weekend some friends and I flew to Bariloche, which is one of the northernmost cities in Patagonia, the southern part of the country known for glaciers and chocolate shops. And also Nazis, unfortunately. We were too far north for glaciers and – luckily – saw no vestiges of Nazism, but we certainly hit the chocolate shops. Bariloche is a city nestled in the foothills of the Andes and adjacent to several long, deep blue lakes. The main lake, Lago Nahuel Haupi, was so enormous I was sure it must be the sea. The landscape was absolutely stunning, perfect enough to be a painting, and for the first time since being in Argentina, I felt like I was well and truly outside

We stayed in a large house at the top of a hill, although we didn’t spend much time there. We made the most of our three days by walking many many kilometers. We hiked a mountain and discovered snow, as well as some guys from Buenos Aires who offered us a trial mix and travel recommendations. We strolled through the cobblestoned city center, stopping every few meters to take advantage of free chocolate samples at each little shop. One day we even did a chocolate history tour at Havanna, one of Argentina’s favorite chocolate shops. Some other highlights: a lovely midday doze on the rocky shore of the lake, a trek through a forest of arrayanes (see photo), and an accidental but wonderful 10-mile hike when we lost phone service and missed the bus home. 

To date, Bariloche is my favorite place I’ve visited in Argentina. The sky was huge and humbling and the mountains put me at ease. I’m already dreaming of a backpacking trip through the rest of Patagonia. 

And this weekend, I visited Mar del Plata! As I write this, I’m on the 5-hour bus ride home. Mar del Plata (Silver Sea) is a city south of Buenos Aires that juts into the beautiful Atlantic Ocean. My friends and I were picturing a beach vacation, but the weather didn’t agree. It was chilly and windy, plus a few of us forgot our swimsuits, so in the end, we gave up the whole lounging-in-the-sand dream. Instead, we walked several different beaches and dipped our toes in the water, and our pants if we looked away for too long. Following the recommendations of a Mar del Plata woman I’d met on the bus in Bariloche, we also spent hours meandering down the town’s main avenue. We attempted to window shop but ended up spending most of our cash on pretty things. 

It’s finals season so we allowed ourselves some much-needed rest and relaxation at our Airbnb. It was in the boonies, but it was a beautiful home situated in the forest, so we walked through our verdant neighborhood and petted stray dogs. We discovered a literal cabin in the woods that turned out to be a teahouse, and we whiled away an afternoon sipping fancy teas in what could have been the grandma’s house in Hansel and Gretel. 

It was quite the tranquil girl’s trip. I do wish it had been swimming weather, but I had a great time anyway. Next week I go to Iguazu – huge waterfalls, lush jungle – and then I’m officially done traveling through Argentina. My main goal for Iguazu is to control my urge to pick up random rocks and shove them in my pockets. After these last two weekends, and with limited luggage space, it’s time for some self-discipline. 

What if I don’t want to go home?

Okay, so maybe they were right. Maybe all those former study-abroad students I spoke to before coming to Argentina weren’t crazy. They would go on and on about the life-changing magic of their experiences abroad, and in the same breath, they would remind me – or rather warn me: reentering the U.S. would likely be a difficult transition, maybe even more than leaving home. At the time, this didn’t make much sense. I was anxious about studying abroad. I wasn’t entirely confident in my language skills or in my ability to make friends, adapt to culture shock, or deal with homesickness. (The list goes on). There was so much uncertainty surrounding study abroad and it scared me. There was no doubt that I wanted to go to Argentina; but I also really, really wanted to come back. I didn’t understand why the transition back to regular American life could be so challenging.

And now I do. My anxiety blinded me from imagining just how wonderful life abroad could be. I pictured myself struggling through all the potential hardships and it overshadowed my ability to picture myself enjoying the marvels of studying abroad. Now that I’m actually here and having the time of my life, I truly get it. I understand why so many of my friends had a hard time returning home. 

Some of that Argentine sunshine

I am very conscious that I only have six weeks left in Buenos Aires. I’m doing my absolute best to take advantage of this time, but I’m already starting to dread leaving. I’ve built an entirely new world here and the fact is I don’t want to abandon it. I don’t want to abandon my wonderful new friends, my host mom, my cozy little room, the incredible Argentine sunshine, or all my little rituals that I’ve worked so arduously to establish here. Somehow it feels like I just got here, like I’m just starting to find solid footing in Buenos Aires, and just as soon I have to leave. 

Although I won’t know for certain until I land in Denver, I’m predicting that the hardest aspect of my homecoming will be adapting to my usual life of responsibility. I have endless free time here. No job, no homework, no family duties. I do whatever I want and I adore it. My life back home is far from humdrum, but it is demanding to keep up with all the obligations of student life. Besides, I will miss the culture here. The pre-study abroad version of me might not have believed it, but I will miss being surrounded by Spanish. I will miss the languid Argentine lifestyle, their love for asado, and their lively conversation. I’ve been living like an Argentine for months now. Just as it was difficult to upend my life and move abroad, it will be difficult to shift in reverse.

However, I think it would be a mistake to expect this reverse culture shock to be dooming. I can’t wait to go home and be able to hug my boyfriend, eat chicken tikka masala, and sleep in my own bed with my own pictures on the walls. I can’t wait to spend a white Christmas with the loving family that I’ve missed so much. And if there’s one thing I’ve learned from my experience in Argentina, it’s that I am adaptable. (Something about what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, right?) When I left the U.S., I worried I’d never survive in Buenos Aires. Now here I am in Buenos Aires worrying I’ll never survive in the U.S. Things will be just fine. And anyway, I still have a month and a half to live out the rest of my Argentine dreams; I’d better use it well.