Luxury and natural disaster

This weekend I traveled to Mendoza, Argentina. Situated just east of the Andes, it is the capital city of the arid Mendoza Province. It’s world-renowned as the heart of Argentina’s wine country, where much of the nation’s prized Malbec is produced. Flying into Mendoza, the hot sun over the whitecaps reminded me of Colorado, and I was glad to find some respite from my usual city views.

We spent the first morning strolling through town and napping off our fatigue. That afternoon we found ourselves at an overpriced rooftop cafe looking out over the beautiful city and the mountains in the distance. We meandered through the main town plaza, watching the canoers on the lake and stopping to smell the flowers in the perfectly manicured rose garden. We finished the evening with a delicious meal; I ate rabbit ravioli and drank local wine which felt very luxurious. 

The next morning we were up bright and early to hike Cerro Arco, one of the mountain peaks closer to town. Even at 9 am, it was hot, and all of us were puffing as we ascended, pausing to take in the landscape and also to avoid keeling over. On our way down, we began chatting with another hiker. After exchanging pleasantries, she warned us of the Zonda, a local phenomenon in which the wind comes down the Andes hot, dry, and very fast. She said winds could reach 80 km that weekend and advised us to stay inside if possible. We thanked her but shrugged it off; even at the top of our mountain, there was hardly a breeze. 

But throughout the rest of the day, we continued to hear warnings of the Zonda. We dressed up and drove out to the countryside for a wine tasting. We toured the vineyard and the cellars before sitting down to several different wine and cheese pairings. Truth be told, I used to think the whole sommelier thing was hocus pocus (notes of oak and tobacco? Please), but this experience changed my mind. Our guide taught us how to identify what we were tasting such that by the third wine variety I was basically an expert in tannins and mouthfeel. 

At this point, the winds had indeed begun to pick up. As our tour came to a close, all that dry steppe dust was beginning to swirl into the air and fill our lungs and eyes. We went directly home and canceled our plans that night. The streets outside our downtown Airbnb were deserted. On our trek to dinner, we covered our mouths as we were whipped by wind and debris like some kind of sick Western movie. Mid-meal, the lights flickered and a loud crash outside turned out to be an entire tree collapsing into the street.

Needless to say, we stayed in the next day. I was disappointed that we had been forced to abandon our plans, but we made the most of it. We slept in and spent the afternoon reading, watching music videos, and playing cards. Our power went out that evening while we were out grabbing dinner and didn’t come back on until the middle of the night.

It certainly was not the weekend we were expecting, but we left with a bit of a tan and a few essential lessons: 1) Remain flexible. 2) Do not trust the Weather app. It will lie to you. 3) If multiple local residents tell you that the Argentine version of the Dust Bowl is coming, you should probably heed their warnings. In the end, we had a great time and I would definitely recommend visiting Mendoza… weather permitting.

A tale of two cities

I’m arriving at the end of my time here in Buenos Aires, and I’ve been taking advantage of these final few weeks by traveling. Last weekend some friends and I flew to Bariloche, which is one of the northernmost cities in Patagonia, the southern part of the country known for glaciers and chocolate shops. And also Nazis, unfortunately. We were too far north for glaciers and – luckily – saw no vestiges of Nazism, but we certainly hit the chocolate shops. Bariloche is a city nestled in the foothills of the Andes and adjacent to several long, deep blue lakes. The main lake, Lago Nahuel Haupi, was so enormous I was sure it must be the sea. The landscape was absolutely stunning, perfect enough to be a painting, and for the first time since being in Argentina, I felt like I was well and truly outside

We stayed in a large house at the top of a hill, although we didn’t spend much time there. We made the most of our three days by walking many many kilometers. We hiked a mountain and discovered snow, as well as some guys from Buenos Aires who offered us a trial mix and travel recommendations. We strolled through the cobblestoned city center, stopping every few meters to take advantage of free chocolate samples at each little shop. One day we even did a chocolate history tour at Havanna, one of Argentina’s favorite chocolate shops. Some other highlights: a lovely midday doze on the rocky shore of the lake, a trek through a forest of arrayanes (see photo), and an accidental but wonderful 10-mile hike when we lost phone service and missed the bus home. 

To date, Bariloche is my favorite place I’ve visited in Argentina. The sky was huge and humbling and the mountains put me at ease. I’m already dreaming of a backpacking trip through the rest of Patagonia. 

And this weekend, I visited Mar del Plata! As I write this, I’m on the 5-hour bus ride home. Mar del Plata (Silver Sea) is a city south of Buenos Aires that juts into the beautiful Atlantic Ocean. My friends and I were picturing a beach vacation, but the weather didn’t agree. It was chilly and windy, plus a few of us forgot our swimsuits, so in the end, we gave up the whole lounging-in-the-sand dream. Instead, we walked several different beaches and dipped our toes in the water, and our pants if we looked away for too long. Following the recommendations of a Mar del Plata woman I’d met on the bus in Bariloche, we also spent hours meandering down the town’s main avenue. We attempted to window shop but ended up spending most of our cash on pretty things. 

It’s finals season so we allowed ourselves some much-needed rest and relaxation at our Airbnb. It was in the boonies, but it was a beautiful home situated in the forest, so we walked through our verdant neighborhood and petted stray dogs. We discovered a literal cabin in the woods that turned out to be a teahouse, and we whiled away an afternoon sipping fancy teas in what could have been the grandma’s house in Hansel and Gretel. 

It was quite the tranquil girl’s trip. I do wish it had been swimming weather, but I had a great time anyway. Next week I go to Iguazu – huge waterfalls, lush jungle – and then I’m officially done traveling through Argentina. My main goal for Iguazu is to control my urge to pick up random rocks and shove them in my pockets. After these last two weekends, and with limited luggage space, it’s time for some self-discipline.