Parisian Perfection

Oh. My. GOODNESS.

Little Gwen would be absolutely freaking out right now if she knew she was writing a blog about having visited PARIS! 

Last weekend, I visited the iconic city in France with my dad. It was wonderful to see him after having been away from home for so long (especially since he brought me a lot of American snacks). I flew AirFrance for the first time and got a little madeline as my in-flight snack (it was lovely). Upon arrival I met my father in the airport and we were off! After settling into our hotel and having a nap my dad and I headed in search of food. In this blog I want to share some highlights of where to eat and what to see when visiting this iconic city, the city of my dreams…

L’Escargot! 

When in Paris you of course have to try escargot! In this cute little restaurant tucked away in Les Halles, you are welcomed with warm french onion soup and bone marrow, but you come for the snails. This was my first time trying escargot, so I got a mixed plate with two traditional flavored (parsley and garlic), two truffles, and two foie gras snails. You eat them with snail tongs, which are so fun to grab the shell with, and are given a little fork to dig the meat out. They are a little chewy, but honestly delicious, it was like I was eating a ball of garlic butter. Quite the experience. We also paired this meal and most others with a glass of wine (white for me). It’s so fun to finally be 21 and able to try pairing wine with various meals, especially in Paris. My dad also ordered this soft chicken breast cooked with these sweet, chewy dates. It was to die for. The restaurant had a very warm, homey vibe, and a giant snail statue on top of the entrance. So cute. 

Notre Dame + Shakespeare & Company 

After lunch we went to explore more of Paris and stopped by Notre Dame. It was incredible to see how they have been working so hard to reconstruct the famous cathedral after the fire in 2019. It finally re-opens for the public again in December, I can’t wait! Right across the street is a bookshop I have seen all over the internet called “Shakespeare & Company”. It’s a now-famous little store, cluttered with books and pictures of various authors. It’s so warm and cozy, almost Harry Potter-esc with cramped little staircases. You’re not allowed to take pictures inside, but that really allowed me to enjoy the ambience of it all. I bought two books, each stamped with the famous ink design of Shakespeare’s head from the book store. After a little further exploration of the city at night, we polished off some crepes before heading to bed. You’re not doing Paris right if you don’t have a Nutella crepe!

The Louvre & Les Deux Magots

Of course we got tickets to the iconic Louvre. I’m going to give y’all a tip, when visiting the Louvre, pace yourself! I knew how big it was, but two hours just flew by. We were able to get through the Denon and Sully wings, and of course saw the Mona Lisa after pursuing the Tuileries Garden just outside that morning. It was so special for me, as the Louvre was one of the many places my parents got to visit on their honeymoon. My favorite exhibit had to be the Egyptian rooms, or the sculpture hall. I have always had a deep affinity for marble statues, there is just something so regal about them. The room was covered by a glass ceiling, allowing light to filter through and give the room this gorgeous white glow. Despite our three days there being gloomy and gross, Paris was still as beautiful as ever. 

Let me just say after a full morning/afternoon running around at the Louvre we were famished! We originally intended on another restaurant, but upon discovering it was closed, we improvised. What a lovely improvisation it was! My dad and I ended up at Les Deux Magots, a café on the corner of Saint-Germain-Des-Prés. Apparently, it was once a place the literary elite pursued in Paris, with writers like Earnest Hemmingway and Surrealist artists having eaten there. Glad we didn’t end up at the intended spot! Now I get to say I ate in the same place as Hemmingway! I also finally got to try one of the many items on my French cuisine bucket list: beef tartare! I have to say I was wary of trying this dish (It is raw meat after all) and I was pleasantly surprised! It was particularly chewy, but had a delightful flavor. My father got a salmon sandwich and fries, and we ended it all with a chocolate mousse (another french food bucket list item). 

That night we intended to check out the Opera House, but upon discovering it was closed we decided to enter the Galeries Lafayette, climb to the top and see the Eiffel Tower at night (what a treat). We ended the evening at a French bistrot near our hotel and I got beef stew with carrots (DELISH!). 

Le Relais de l’Entrecôte & Arc de Triomphe

After a morning once again enjoying the iconic Tower Eiffel (and taking lots of pictures), we decided to head to Le Relais de l’Entrecôte. Located on the corner of Rue Marbeuf street, this little restaurant stirs up quite the buzz. You have to get there right before they open and already there will be a line out the door. You’re ushered inside, welcomed by the red and gold decor. They fill as many tables as they can before locking the door. The restaurant was so crowded we ended up getting to make friends with our unintentional table mates. What makes this restaurant so special is that they serve one thing: entrecôte and fries, which is a specially cut beef. They’re perfected this recipe over centuries. They start you off with a side salad and wine before presenting you with the famous dish. The steak was cooked to perfection, covered in a special mustard sauce. The fries were warm and crispy (I swear there is nothing in the world like a good french fry), and once you finish they pile your plate with a second helping of both before offering dessert. I paired my meal with a red wine this time, classic for a steak. I was so excited to eat here, not only do I love steak and fries, but this was one of the restaurants my parents ate at on their honeymoon, so it was extra special to me. 

After that we decided to walk it all off by visiting the Arc de Triomphe. I had no idea what to expect, and it was certainly not a very tall, very long spiral staircase that made me a little dizzy, but let me tell you the climb was worth it! The views of Paris from the top of the Arc were breathtaking. You can see all the streets of Paris perfectly, all the way down Champs-Élysées to the Louvre, every iconic symbol and carefully crafted architectural building. The Arc was crafted to honor those who fied for France during the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars, with names of all the French victories and generals inscribed on the inner and outer surfaces; it was such a beautiful memorial to see. Safe to say it has some of the best views in France!

Musée Marmottan Monet & Burgers

Of course I had to see some Monet paintings when in Paris! Exhibited in an old Empire-style decorated townhouse once owned by Paul Marmottan, there are many of Claude Monet’s works there. It’s adorable, pink and blue walls enhanced by careful gold trim, full of a vast variety of some of my favorite paintings by my favorite artist. I would have loved to live in a house like that one back in the day, it made me feel like I was in Bridgerton. They also had the most peculiar and interesting paintings by Jean Francois de le Motte and Gaspard Gresly, artists famous for their hyper-realistic pieces. I love a painting that makes me feel as if I can reach out and grab whatever is there. My dad and I ended the night at another bistrot near our hotel and I couldn’t decide what to get so we settled on a safer option: burgers! One of the best ones I’ve ever had in my life at that. For dessert: crème brûlée and tirimisu. What a dream.

Hot Cocoa & Familiar Faces

Our last morning there my father had left before me to catch an early flight, and I decided to grab breakfast in the lobby with a dear friend of mine from camp I hadn’t seen in over four years. She’s been living in Paris for about two years now and has never been happier. We got to catch up over croissants (of which I had at least one a day-no joke I can live off of them for the rest of my life) and coffee. One day she’s going to be one of the best opera singers in Paris, I just know it. Right before my flight she offered to show me around Bastille and I treated us to some warm hot chocolate. Hot chocolate in France is just on another level of deliciousness. It was not overly sweet, just the right amount of warm and comforting, exactly what I needed when it started to drizzle.

With a tearful goodbye I headed off to the airport. Paris, you were delicious and beautiful and I simply cannot wait to go back.

Agur!

-GM ❤

It’s the People Who Make the Place

I genuinely think that my study abroad experience would not have been half as enjoyable if I had not been placed with such an incredible host family.

I remember deciding to live with a family before going abroad, feeling a little unsure, nervous, worried about such a big change, and having to adjust to a new family and a new way of doing things. I remember finding out there were kids in my homestay and feeling terrified I wouldn’t be able to have my own space, as I have never lived with an 11 and 13-year-old before. Would they like me? Would it be hard to communicate with the language barrier?

Safe to say: best decision I ever made.

Another girl from DU and I were placed with a lovely family of four tucked away in the old town of Bilbao, Casco Viejo. Our family includes Ana, our host mom, Sergio, our host dad, and our two host children, Cloé and Enzo.

Ana is the kindest soul. On our first day, she picked us up from the tram station and helped us lug our bags to the little apartment where we would spend the next four months. I remember she fixed us lunch and let us settle in before we met the kids. Cloé is so creative, not only can she paint beautifully, but she has some of the nicest handwriting I have ever seen from an 11-year-old. She and I both love to draw and create, making my roommate and I the cutest clay keychains (mine is a bunny) as gifts during the first month here. Enzo is one of the funniest kids I’ve ever met. He had a lot of medical complications as a baby, having gone through surgery after surgery, and is such a resilient kid. I constantly admire him. He loves soccer, or fútbol, as we call it here. He could go on for hours explaining all the different leagues and teams to me (which I am super grateful he does as someone trying to learn more about sports). We plan on going to a game here together sometime soon and I cannot wait.

Each night we have dinner with the kids and Sergio. Ana recently started a new job helping disabled children in schools, so I usually see her more at lunch. Sergio is one of the funniest and most generous people I’ve ever met. I love explaining American lingo to him even when the language barrier gets tricky, and we have to laugh over silly little miscommunications. Recently, I tagged along with Sergio to one of Enzo’s soccer games, it was so fun watching him play a game on his own team. Before that, we stopped by the supermarket and I got to help Sergio grocery shop. Traveling every weekend certainly takes a toll on you and I’ve decided to make more of an effort to stay in Bilbao and remain present, which includes spending more time with my host family. I love mundane everyday activities like running errands, it allows me to see the little differences between our two countries.

There was one night I got off a bus from Madrid in the dead of night and had texted Ana to let her know I was safe, and planned on trying to grab a taxi since public transport was closed. She immediately insisted she come and pick me up with the car, not wanting me to have to navigate Bilbao when it was so dark outside. I had never been so grateful, I felt like I was home and my mom was picking me up after a late night of travel.

For my 21st birthday, they made me mac & cheese (the Texan way with four cheeses, yum) and got me a necklace along with a sweet card I have positioned above my bed. I had been so homesick that day, so to end it with a sweet family dinner, I just felt so at home. I remember another night we went to grab a coffee and have a stroll for Ana’s birthday. It was so nice to feel like I was with a family again, just getting to hang out and talk. Sergio once brought up some hand weights for me when I expressed my desire for an at-home workout and Ana, a yoga mat. Once, I came home for lunch and was greeted by a can of Dr. Pepper, apparently only found at a certain market that sometimes sold American goodies (again, I cried). They’ve always jumped at the chance to help me find cheap flights, help me book tickets for events, and let my friend hang out for a few hours while she waited for her flight.

Here, our laundry is taken care of, each meal is cooked for us, and we are treated with such kindness and respect. Sometimes, Ana even leaves us little candies on our freshly made beds (I cried). When my roommate’s parents visited, they made the loveliest dinner for them, really trying to incorporate traditional basque cuisine elements. I remember that night her parents asked them why they decided to start hosting. They talked about how important it was to them for their children to be exposed to people of another culture, especially in case they one day want to participate in an exchange program of their own. I want nothing more than to leave the kids with a good impression of the English language, and have them know they always have a home in the U.S.

I fear that I will never be able to fully express my gratitude and love for this family, and how positively they have impacted my study abroad experience. My roommate and I have attempted to show our gratitude, doing the bare minimum such as keeping our space clean, helping to load and unload the dishwasher and more. I try to vacuum any dust build-up I notice in our room and am happy to run any errands for our family. I recently bought them a pink flower plant and brought back some American snack goodies as thank-yous from my parents and I. None of this feels sufficient enough to portray just how much I adore this family.

I am so lucky to be able to say “I studied abroad and had the best experience” and be able to chalk most of that up to living with such kind people; people that I will never forget and fully intend to keep contact with for when I inevitably return to Spain.

Anyway, agur guys!

-GM ❤