When I was registering for classes at UCC over the summer, I was really intrigued by the possibility of taking an archaeology class. This kind of course is (mostly) not accessible in the U.S and I’ve always been interested in learning about the way people lived hundreds of years ago. The specific class I registered for covers archaeology in the later medieval period of Ireland- it’s a crash-course about both Gaelic and Anglo-Norman ways of life in Ireland from about 1150-1550 AD. As a bonus feature of the course, this past Saturday we went on a field trip to East Cork and Youghal (pronounced “yawl”), where castles and churches from the later medieval period still stand. We had several stops, and there were a few that really left an impression on me.
I. Conna Castle, East Cork
Irish castles are extremely unique because they don’t tend to follow the traditional structure we picture when we think of castles. Instead, they are mostly stone towers that- out of necessity- were primarily defensive in function due to hostilities with England. Many of these castles were strategically built on higher ground with stone quarries (for building) and a water source nearby, like Conna Castle. Unfortunately, a majority of these tower castles around Ireland are considered ruins, primarily because a lot of them do not have ceilings and, in general, they are extremely unstable. Conna Castle is a great representation of the functions of tower castles in the later medieval period, and it was an incredible experience to see it.
III. St. Mary’s Collegiate Church, Youghal
St. Mary’s Church is a really unique landmark in Youghal, County Cork. It’s almost an amalgamation of different period influences: later medieval, the Reformation, the Renaissance, and the Victorian Era. The most notable of these features is St. Mary’s ceiling: most of the wooden beams are original to the first church, carbon dated back to the 12th century. This is extremely remarkable because it is one of the only- if not the sole- surviving examples of later medieval church roofs. The rest of the church has been restored: the Reformation saw the installation of medieval replica tiles, the Renaissance saw the construction of renaissance-style tombs, and the Victorian Era introduced most of the stained glass throughout the church. While St. Mary’s is not a perfect preservation of the later medieval period, the parts of it that have survived have taught archaeologists a lot about church construction during the period. The church itself is extraordinary.
The Youghal city wall was constructed around the church, some of it original to the later medieval period while other parts are the conservation attempts of the Victorians. While up on the city wall, you can see out over the church grounds and onto the water.
I am so glad that I stepped out of my comfort zone to take this archaeology class. Not only am I learning so much about the architecture of later medieval Ireland, I’m also gaining knowledge about the way of life during the period. My overall goal with my courses was to be able to learn as much about Ireland as I can- past and present- and I feel like I’m really connecting to its origins.
DU Abroad 