Category: Italy

My standards for food are dangerously high now.

Published on by Claudia CutlerLeave a comment

I’m sure you’ve already heard, but the food in Florence is really good. I will try my best to explain but I hope you read this on a full stomach, for your sake! I start most days at the cafe across my street and cough up a couple euros for a fresh-baked cornetto paired with a delectable latte. People-watching outside with my quintessential Italian breakfast is always the perfect way to kickstart my day. But lunch is where the magic really begins. Even if I stumble into a spot I’ve never been before, I can always count on a 5-star focaccia sandwich or pasta dish. My favorite pasta right now is probably pappardelle al cinghiale, wide ribbons with wild boar ragu. Recently I discovered a classic Tuscan bread soup called ribollita, which I think I’m going to email the DU dining hall about soon. I have yet to brave the lampredotto that locals swear by, a street food specialty made from cow’s stomach. I’m going to try it before I leave, it just hasn’t been screaming my name. On the contrary, I have officially consumed the bistecca alla Fiorentina! Their T-bone steak here is famous for a reason. I’m not sure how to explain it other than a meat lover’s dream come true, seared to perfection. Although it is on the more expensive side, it is WORTH it and an experience to remember. 

Of course, dining in Florence’s tourist hubs can be a tad pricey. But I’ve found when I venture a bit off the beaten path, there are local trattorias and osterias that offer authentic, inexpensive, all the while mind-blowing food! It’s actually ridiculous compared to cheap food in America. It’s funny how a McDonald’s trip used to brighten my entire day, but now I just laugh when I pass it. Even at nicer sit-down restaurants, you can find pasta for 12 euros which would probably double in price in America considering the quality. And quantity! I was pleasantly surprised to find portions to be just as big, if not bigger. Eating out all the time is a luxury that no one in any country can afford though, so I’m grateful for Conad just a minute’s walk from my apartment. Conad is a fairly large grocery store chain with reasonable prices for all kinds of food. I’ve made such cute little discoveries like stracciatella yogurt, cheeses paired with specific jams, and multiple aisles dedicated to wine. While there are organic street markets I could stop and shop at, I appreciate Conad for its extensive produce section. The one thing about Italian restaurants is that vegetables are a rare sight to see. However, I’m not ashamed to admit that I take advantage of several Americanized restaurants like Shake Cafe, which I can rely on for a cheap and healthy meal. It was tough to weed out the overpriced tourist trap spots, but after some exploration and time, I can safely say my meals have never been more satisfying.

Something truly special about eating out is the authenticity of the service. Even though there’s no tipping system, all of the waiters I’ve had have been kind while remaining straight to the point. There are no fake laughs, unnecessary apologies, or check-ins. The ones with big personalities have no problem concealing it, joking that they won’t hand over the check; “what do you mean you’re full? No such thing!”. When we do bond every once in a while, I feel like they actually want to get to know me and my friends. Once we asked for the check at dinner, I noticed the waiter would wait for a long period of silence to arrive with it. The first time I noticed it had been 20 minutes since I asked for the check, I was confused and a little annoyed. But it’s happened almost every time now, and I realized that however long I have a dinner with someone is a direct reflection of how much fun we’re having. It’s a simple concept that dinner is a social experience, but eating in Florentine restaurants has trained me to slow down and truly enjoy myself, my company, and my food. It’s also an unspoken rule that ordering takeout, while an option, is actually not an option. The rudest glares I’ve received were for this reason, from cashiers to locals on the street. It makes sense though; why would you diminish dining or the people who put effort into your food? Food and wine are meant to be appreciated as a holistic experience, not just consumed. I think I’m beginning to understand la dolce vita – the sweet life.

I want to end with a quick love letter for my favorite gelato place, My Sugar. My Sugar won the best gelato in Florence competition in 2016, which is an insane accomplishment considering there is gelato on almost every other block. I’m surprised they haven’t won all of the years. I’ve probably been to 20 different gelato places since I arrived, and My Sugar is the only one I actively crave. It tastes like heaven fluff cream, and each flavor is designed to its fullest potential. I didn’t believe in perfection until I met My Sugar. If I could have one dessert for the rest of my life it would be My Sugar. Okay, I think I’ve gotten my point across. All in all, Florence is delicious.

Weekend Trip to Capri and Sorrento (Part 1)

Published on by lhnevarezLeave a comment

I was able to go on a school-sponsored weekend trip to Pompei, the Sorrento Coast, and a nice visit to the island city of Capri. This is covering the first day of my three-day, two-night trip.

To start off, I had to wake up early to meet at Piazza Trilussa at 8:30 AM to get on the 4-hour bus ride to start the weekend off with a visit to Pompei. It was a surreal experience walking through the preserved city. It was essentially the same size as some of the other cities I’ve visited but yet it was literally a ghost town lost to time. Our tour guide would point out the markets and the food stalls that used to line the streets, as we walked on the walking stones that would allow room for the carriages and the horses to do their business without causing the citizens to step on the horse’s personal business. We walked through a few houses and were able to get an amazing view of the city of Pompei from on top of a hill made to allow archeologists to survey the land as they unearthed more and more structures. It provided such a wonderful view of the expanse of the city and really allowed you to just appreciate the decades of work people have put into slowly and carefully uncovering a city buried in ash and dust. After we were done exploring the ruins, we had a delicious lunch just outside before heading off to our next location.

We toured a small family-owned pasta-making business, Pasta Cuomo, in Gragnano. One of the owners, Alfonso Cuomo, was incredibly passionate about his craft because he had the chance to reopen and reinvent his family’s business that began in the 1820s. He told us about the way that the city was once built entirely around pasta and how so much of the current block that he resides on used to be a part of the larger structure to help make the pasta for the city. He showed us the way that they used to make pasta and how the old machines used to function and work together to provide the proper foundation needed for creating the pasta. He was a wonderful host, and his passion was very evident in every word he said. Their company also works as a cooking class, bistro, museum, and BNB. I highly recommend checking them out and maybe ordering some pasta from them to help support and maintain a family business that started in the 1820s.

Once we were done there, we arrived at the 4-star hotel that was booked for us and set our stuff down before eating a 3-course Italian meal paired with dessert and more bread than we could handle. The people at the hotel were truly kind and made sure that we had enough water and food to allow us to just relax before we got to rest before our day in Capri.