Let Me Cook

London has some of the worst urban planning in the world, but this is because the city has been around since before urban planning itself existed. Most of the city’s major expansions occurred during the Industrial Revolution (the mid 1700s to late 1800s), so the design philosophy for most areas was as follows:

Oh, a factory! I guess we should build some houses around it for the people who work there… let’s also put in a space for a restaurant so they can eat. Maybe a school if their kids are getting an education and not working in the mines. Could we place a church in this skinny alleyway? Oh, there are more people now – let’s just put some more houses here… and there… and hey, is that another factory? And so the process begins again.

Modern urban planning wasn’t really formalized until the UK’s 1909 Housing and Town Planning Act, so most construction before that was entirely random and sporadic. For example, many working-class homes were built as “back-to-backs,” sharing a wall with another house, lacking adequate ventilation, and having no yards to cram as many people as possible near a factory. If you look at an aerial map of an average US neighborhood versus a London neighborhood, you’ll see that the US neighborhoods are meticulously planned with space for schools, retail, a certain distance between houses, streets that have clear start and end points. In London, you’ll find a lot of streets that start and end in odd places and churches in places where there shouldn’t be churches. As a bonus, every single tiny street has its own name, which makes finding certain streets particularly difficult.

Gandhi
The Gandhi statue in Tavistock Square. This garden is not just peaceful, but proves something about London’s endurance. It’s survived a bombing in World War II and a suicide bombing in 2005.

Even experienced Londoners will usually need some form of a mapping app to get around the city. I was looking for a café to eat at with a friend after class in Marylebone, and we walked around for a solid 15 minutes before getting to the right street, even with the directions out on our phones. We had to turn into this deserted-looking street, that then immediately opens up into a larger street with a variety of restaurants and shops. Navigating around London is not for the easily discouraged. 

Primrose Hill
The view from Primrose Hill in Regent’s Park. From here, you can see a lot of iconic landmarks: St. Paul’s Cathedral, the London Eye, the Shard, the Walkie Talkie, the Gherkin, St. Pancras International.

The cafe itself was very good, though (the Chiltern Street Deli, if you’re curious). Much like everything else in London, it was kind of expensive. I ordered a tuna melt, and I kept thinking to myself “I could make this at home… why am I paying £7.5 for canned tuna, cheese, and bread?” It’s the experience, the vibes, and convenience, I suppose. I enjoyed my food and chatted with my friend, so I think it was worth it. Travel and food are inherently related to each other. But still, the financial and potential dietary consequences of eating out all the time abroad are not to be underestimated. Convenient and fun, yes – but cooking is still an absolutely necessary life skill that I think not enough people have. Knowing your way around a knife, a pan with hot oil, or a piece of raw chicken breast are essential things to know. I’ve been cooking in my flat kitchen pretty often, especially on slower days when I just stay home and take calls for my internship and don’t see the outside world; it’s something that can simultaneously kill time and provide me with sustenance. What’s not to love? 

Cooking for yourself gives you a sense of normalcy. Romanticize it, just as much as you would eating at a local restaurant. The act of producing something with one’s hands, using all one’s senses, is very fulfilling. Personally, I’ve always known my way around the kitchen pretty well. I have always been interested in food, where it comes from, how to make it, how to eat it. I grew up watching Food Network with my parents on weekends, and my dad spent a long time working in the food/beverage industry. If you’re used to exclusively eating mommy and daddy’s cooking, instant noodles, or dining hall food, picking up a knife for the first time might be daunting. These are some things that I’ve found helpful when making my meals during my time in university, that a current/future DU abroad reader may appreciate:

  • When you do cook, just make a lot of one thing. For example, if I am making chicken breast and rice, I would simply cook 2-3x the amount of chicken I am actually going to eat, put it in some containers, throw it in the fridge, and boom. Protein for days. 
  • 99% of meals are just some variation of a protein, carbohydrate, and vegetable/green thing. Planning to buy 1-2 proteins (chicken breast, ground turkey, per se) 1-2 carbohydrates (e.g. rice or pasta), and 2-3 vegetables (my go-tos are cucumber, bell pepper, tomato) will have you set for a lot of meals. Having a list of these things when you go grocery shopping will also prevent you from buying as many chips or snacks.
  • The most basic kitchen essentials are a knife and a pan. You only need one good knife, which will have you slicing and dicing almost all the ingredients in your posession. Don’t cheap out too much on a pan. You’ll know that the one you choose is good if you can imagine yourself whacking someone on the head and causing them serious injury with it. If there is any shred of doubt about the severity of their injury, or worse, your pan getting dented, you need a better pan. 
  • Learn the basics and everything else becomes quite easy. Dice an onion, butterfly your chicken breast, make rice and pasta, make eggs in at least 2 different ways (e.g. over easy, scrambled), and a world of cooking options becomes available to you. 
  • Heavy emphasis on knowing how to cook your chicken. For breasts, slice them in half lengthways, put them between pieces of plastic wrap, pound the thicker end with a mallet or your death-inducing pan, oil that same pan, grill each piece on medium-high heat on each side for 4-5 minutes. 
  • Premade sauce and seasoning blends will solve most of your problems. Despite what TikTok chefs want you to believe, you do not need to make your own sauces. Just buy one that seems good from the grocery, heat it up and throw it on your plate. Use a seasoning blend on your protein instead of buying all the separate ones to save space. Easy.

Here are two examples of meals I made, which are quite simple when you boil it down to the protein/carb/vegetable basics:

Dinner 1
Salmon with rice and vegetables. I bought the salmon (protein), a premade thai sauce, and then just had to cook my rice(carb) and chop up some vegetables to put on the side (but don’t worry, I did cook my broccoli on the stovetop). 
Dinner 2
Chicken tikka masala. This might seem complicated, but I just bought the sauce and naan from an Indian grocery store I passed on my way to my flat. So the three components are my chicken breast (protein), rice/naan (carb), and the cucumber (vegetable). Not too shabby. 

Note: FYI, naan just means bread. I will judge you if you say naan bread because that just means you’re saying “bread bread”. It’s like saying “chai tea” (tea tea) or “bao bun” (bun bun).

I encourage you to see the grocery store as just as much of a cultural experience as eating at a local restaurant is. Find some strange ingredient you’ve never heard of, and try to make something with it for dinner. Now you’ve got an evening activity that won’t break the bank! 

Cliffs
Me at the Seven Sisters cliffs in Seaford. Would highly recommend the day trip to Seaford/Seven sisters in the morning, then a 45-minute bus ride to Brighton (which is like if Maine, Key West, and San Francisco had a baby together).

Maybe next time I’ll attempt to cook something with the infamous British “brown sauce”. 

If you’ve managed to read through my mediocre crash course on cooking for college students abroad, I appreciate you dearly.

Thanks again for reading!

Alexandra

Positively Chuffed to Bits

Instead of having multiple playlists for one particular mood or feeling, I am actually insane and I make one playlist for each month. I do this so that I can go back and look at them and see what I listened to in a given month in a given year. My music taste ranges from profane rap music to some kind-of-niche R&B artist to angry 90s dad rock on a daily basis, but I have been trying to immerse myself in some music that comes from the UK since I arrived here in September. Here are five songs that I’ve enjoyed as I continue to build my October playlist:

Smooth Operator – Sade

  • My mom actually listened to a lot of Sade (pronounced shah-DAY) as I was growing up. This British-Nigerian singer has the type of voice that can command a room. If you like the aesthetic of espresso martinis, dimly-lit jazz clubs, throwing on a fur coat late at night, and leather boots on a damp city sidewalk, Sade is for you.

In My Bed – Amy Winehouse

  • Oh Amy, how I miss you… a wonderful singer with even more iconic eyeliner, gone too soon. You deserved those six Grammy and so much more. Her music is an eclectic blend of genres: soul, rhythm and blues, and jazz. I just really like the wind instruments in this song, and her voice, like the rest of her music.

Gas Me Up (Diligent) – Skepta

  • I listen to a lot of American rap, so I was curious to explore the UK scene. From Tottenham, Skepta is well-known in the British grime music scene. If you want more British rap, try Central Cee, Fimiguerrero, Lancey Foux, and if you’re feeling a little edgier, Scouse rapper EsDeeKid. 

One Thing – Lola Young

  • Lola Young is well-known for her viral track “Messy” in addition to being featured on Tyler, the Creator’s album Chromakopia (who is also one of my favorite artists), which is how I initially found out about her. From Southeast London, her music is her trying to make sense of the world around her in a sort of there’s-all-this-crap-out-there-and-I’m-just-here kind of way which I appreciate.

While My Guitar Gently Weeps – The Beatles

  • Because what’s more British than The Beatles?

Is this a futile attempt to be more of a local? Appreciate the British accent as a musical instrument? Understand how Brits think? Or just expand my listening palette? Who knows! 

Bath, Bath
In Bath, there is (shockingly) a big bath to see. These Roman baths have been around since 1 AD!

The construction of my playlist this month has gone well, but I had a bit of an identity crisis over the weekend as I listened to said playlist on the way home from a day trip to Bath. October 5th marked one month in London for me. By now I know which Underground lines go where, that chips are fries, which grocery stores have meal deals. My friends have asked me about “the chube (tube)” which I can describe in good detail, and if someone were to ask me what to do to get a decent view of London in one day I think I’d be able to give a decent enough itinerary; something touristy like Big Ben or Buckingham Palace in the morning, a free museum like Tate Modern, food at Borough market, which is overpriced and overstimulating, but has something for everyone, wandering around the streets, then finishing the day at an English pub with a cider or beer. I also catch myself saying “fair enough” and not bothering to use an umbrella anymore. Slowly, I feel that I will forget how to drive my white Honda CRV at home. I have started drinking less coffee and more tea in the morning.

Bath view
The view of Bath, which I visited this last weekend, from Prior Park. I can understand why Jane Austen spoke so highly of the city.
Sunday Roast
I also had my first Sunday Roast in Bath at the Saracen’s Head in Bath. It’s the oldest pub in Bath, and also hosted Charles Dickens at one point.

Am I even an American anymore? 

I may giggle to myself feeling like a local when I can go to and from class without a map, but I’m really just here temporarily. There is a lot I don’t know about London, and the United Kingdom in general. I was talking to one of my British friends, who jokingly said I should take a trip to Croydon. I responded, “what’s in Croydon?” which got a laugh out of him. He said that I have only really been to the nicer/safer parts of London, which is true. Most of the time I hang out in Regent Street, Oxford Street, Marylebone, or Shoreditch, which are all pleasant areas with a lot to do. I also have not escaped American stereotypes. I still drink a lot of water, say “oh my god” a lot, and get jumpy when I try to jaywalk (to be fair, in the US, you can jaywalk, but only if you want to risk being hit by a car going 50mph). When I buy things I still have to convert to USD, and I still get the underlying feeling that British people tend to think that all Americans are sort of dumb, which I take offense to—there are stupid people everywhere, not just America!

(Note: Croydon is considered to be a notoriously “bad” area in London. Unfortunately, Croydon has very high population density, poor housing and infrastructure, a broke local council, and little job opportunity available to the people who live there, which contributes to crime, addiction, and homelessness.)

So no, I’m not a local. I have a very American passport, and I miss Chick-fil-A. Things are going well, I’m liking my classes, have made good friends, seen a lot of cool stuff. I saw my first fox in Central London, which I think is a sign that I’m doing things right (and that I should go to the nearest Sainsbury’s to buy a lottery ticket). 

London 2
There are actually two Londons: Greater London, which is what you’d generally consider “London” as a whole. The City of London is the “original” London, founded by the Romans. It’s a big financial district now.

Since it’s been a full month now, I feel like I should be feeling homesick at this point. It’s all anyone talks about, the fact that homesickness is an inevitable disease that you will catch at some point while abroad, only a matter of when. While I do reminisce about my dad’s slow cooked lamb and my much larger bed at home, I don’t actually feel homesick. Is it because I’m always doing something? Maybe I’ll feel it later on.

Palladian Bridge
Me in Prior Park, Bath.

I think my lack of homesickness is because I try to keep in close contact with my friends, family, and support system back in the US. I text my parents and friends every day, send them pictures, call them as often as I can. The point of studying abroad is getting away from your usual life, but travelling and ghosting your relationships at home are not mutually exclusive. You can (and absolutely should) do both. Even if it’s just sending a photo of your breakfast or telling them about a weird squirrel you saw, let them know you’re alive. I can guarantee that they’ll appreciate it.

Once again, thanks for reading!

Alexandra