Walk through Czech Culture

Whichever country you travel to or study in, there are things to do every day and every night. You aren’t local to the city or country and there are a million and one things that you want to see before you fly back to your hometown. Historical attractions during the day, good food in the evenings, and drinks to enjoy while discovering a new local nightlife scene. When we rush to do everything at once, we aren’t really giving time to understand the culture or people around us.

Tourists and travelers experience new environments differently. Tourists experience the location as an outsider, travelers enjoy it as if they were local, trying to find what is included in the daily life of people who call the city home. Studying abroad calls for you to embrace your host country as a traveler. I feel like Brno has been the perfect place to take that role. First of all, it’s not Prague. It’s a more authentic slice of Czech life, the language is practically essential here, and the Czechs here definitely enjoy their days at a relaxed pace.

Even though I am guilty of making a Brno Bucket list, I had locals approve it and add spots that they say are worth checking out as well. I also have been taking the time to walk around and visit places that don’t seem like tourist traps. As of right now, that’s included so many cafes, kebab restaurants, and moments sitting on lawns. I’ve found my way into the different grocery stores (Lidl is probably my favorite) and into second-hand shops. But I have gone to some of the more tourist attractions as we were given vouchers from a student club.

I’ve visited the Špilberk Castle, the Romani Culture Museum, and the Ossuary below St. James and explored the city center that houses many historical figures and sights. 

ESN voucher exploration of Brno’s history & cultural influences
Top row: 1. Spilberk Castle in Brno, Czech Republic. 2. From the entrance of the Casemate prison. 3. First room of the Romani Culture Museum. 4. Skulls arranged in rows of the Ossuary below St. James Church. Bottom row: 5. Outside of the casemates within castle grounds. 6. Romani Museum’s dedication to film & media portrayal. 7. Installation of musical instruments in the Romani museum. 8. Skulls and bones are stacked as a wall in the ossuary.

The Moravian Castle, a fortress on a hill, was built during the 13th century and acted as a prison for about 200 years. I toured the casements during my visit which were the home to many torture devices, serious criminals, and political prisoners. During the Nazi Occupation of the country, the prisons were occupied by Czech patriots. There is definitely a sinister feeling floating around the casemates still. 

The Romani Culture Museum holds the eerie yet vibrant history of the Roma people, who have faced endless prosecution. In the US, the Roma are still often referred to as “Gypsy” people, which is a racial slur because of the oppressive context it was used in historically. They are a group of people who have still not found a way to escape the hate against them, even when assimilated into communities. During Nazi occupation, they were a group that was highly targeted and taken to concentration camps. During Communism, they remained a segregated minority. Even though the Roma have an extensive history with the land of Bohemia and Moravia, they are regarded as being the “unwanted Europeans,” with nearly 90% of Roma people living below the poverty line. 

At the Ossuary, you venture below the Church of St. James to visit the underground chamber graves where over 50,000 bodies were believed to be buried. When the bodies were originally buried they were left for 10-12 years before they would be moved into the Ossuary. This religious site has the 2nd largest Ossuary in Europe, and many of its occupants were victims of plague and cholera. One of the chambers still had the Catholic bones arranged in the exact way it was found, remaining untouched. Even though the Czech Republic is an atheist majority, the rediscovery of the Ossuary below the Church in 2001 was a significant experience in the history of the city’s ever-growing population.

All well-known sights and all building up to the culture that the people of Brno experience.

Mendel Quote
Gregor Johann Mendel quote & art within the city center. “To live without experiencing some shame and blushes of admiration would surely be a wretched life.” Mendel is a very important historical character in Brno, even having a square named after him.

The Czech Republic’s history is different than our own in the U.S., with people still alive who experienced the communist regime of the Soviets when it was known as the Czechoslovak Republic. This being said, the Soviet regime was put in place right after the Nazi occupation. It wasn’t until 1989 that they were free from the kind of government and propaganda that fueled the regime. Those with that firsthand experience are stereotypically more closed off and straightforward, and honestly said to be more racist by those 30 and younger who only learned of the harsh history through their older family members and school. Some of my classmates who are Czech have admitted that there is a lot of hypocrisy over racial issues, where some act like the United States is the only offender even though racist presence exists here and everywhere. I feel as if diving into some of the history of the Czech Republic has helped me understand some of the cultural norms and ideologies that linger from it. The local culture here is interesting, and Brno is a diverse place as Masaryk is a very large school for international students to attend and there are many unique personalities within the city.

Lost in Brno

Figuring out the streets and public transport in a new city is never easy, especially in one where you haven’t learned the language yet. Everyone seems to exactly where they are going at all times, no Apple or Google Maps are needed. Maybe they are just akin to the routines that take them along the same routes, or maybe the city is just easy to navigate when you’ve spent your whole life exploring it. All of the natives seem so comfortable in their surroundings, as they should be, but within my time at DU, I still find myself getting lost in Denver. 

My main issue is I don’t know where the hell I am when I’m walking around Brno or boarding any bus or tram. I failed to get an International plan on my phone, so anytime I leave the dorms or campus square I have no access to maps. I will say, screw AT&T for their outrageous fees of 10$ a day, and for having my phone locked so I can’t even switch my SIM card to the free one gifted to me by the student network at Masaryk. Following around other students or staying in groups has been my best bet the past week, but when I had my first class I had to take screenshots of Apple Maps before leaving the dorm, and hope to god that the bus didn’t switch up the route on me while making my journey. 

Walking to cafe MOMENTA in Brno
Walking in the City Centre of Brno to Cafe MOMENTA.

For any trips outside of Brno, & within the city I am trying to have a travel buddy because of my service and data issues, but I do wish I could explore independently like the people around me. I feel pretty safe and secure walking around when I am a bit lost though, there really isn’t that eerie feeling I get in the U.S. as a woman walking alone at night. The Czech Republic is actually the 6th safest country in the world, & Brno definitely proves it’s a safe environment. The girls I’ve been going to most places with have pointed that out as well, especially when we see a woman walking down the city center with 3 or 4 children by themselves. I really can’t imagine that in most places in the U.S., besides maybe a public park or playground but I feel like those are even spots where predators hang around. 

Bratislava day trip!
Britt, Maria, Marta, and I in front of the President’s building in Bratislava, Slovakia.
Bratislava day trip!
Visiting the Bratislava Castle’s garden in Slovakia.

I visited Bratislava, Slovakia for a day trip on Monday, September 18th. Although I hadn’t met anyone that had visited Slovakia before it had a very similar feeling of safety. I wasn’t as physically lost because I was with 3 other exchange students, Marta & Maria from Spain and Britt from Belgium. I’m proud of myself for not just sticking with the other Americans and being willing to take a trip with people I had just met days prior. The whole day we walked around, talking and comparing our home countries, universities, and families to each other. Bratislava is gorgeous and has such an immense history that I had not really thought about before. I feel like America is so young and we often forget about that, but when you see and visit statues and castles from the 9th century it really does open your eyes to the U.S.’s youth.

Overall, even though I don’t necessarily know where I am going most of the time, I feel safe and filled with more curiosity rather than worry.