Category: Culture

Music scene in Florence!

Published on by Claudia CutlerLeave a comment

As expected with its rich artistry history, Florence is a hotspot for music. It doesn’t even matter if you’re seeking it out! At least twice a week I’ll hear the echoes of a street performance down the block and immediately forget where I was heading, like a pirate being lured by a siren. They’ve got everything you can imagine; opera singers, cellists, guitarists, and even dancing ventriloquist puppets!

There’s one spot just a five-minute walk from my apartment that has cute stationary shops, a toy store, gelato, and whatnot, and for some reason, it’s become a designated spot for gifted performers to set up shop and form little crowds that stop by for a moment. I think I’m going to make a documentary about it for my film class. Isn’t it cool to think about one isolated spot on a random sidewalk, and how many stories have been told there through music? And how many other stories passing by were altered? To think it is one musical space out of dozens in the city…

Another place about a 12-minute walk from my apartment that I’ll go to for my favorite gelato (please sponsor me, My Sugar) is a block down from the Mercato Nuovo where Il Porcellino, “the little pig” lives. Legend has it that if you put a coin in his mouth and the water flushes it out, you will return to Florence again. Anyways, during the day this area is a market, but they sweep up the shops in the evenings for buskers to perform. Once a week I’ll sit with an audience on the steps with gelato in hand, basking in the presence of whichever talented performer holds the stage of the little pig. If I’m willing to walk a little farther and take in a grander sight, Ponte Vecchio (the Arno River bridge) is a perfect place to hope for a surprise performance. The walkability of the city is an important factor to mention actually, because I doubt there would be as many performers if cars were always whizzing by. One of my favorite moments in Florence so far was the first time I crossed the Arno at night and a band was playing on the bridge with a lively crowd dancing along. Everyone was so silly and in the moment, I even accidentally made a couple of Italian friends!

I think the best part of these live music moments is the reminder to stop for a minute or two, maybe a half hour, and just enjoy. I could attach that sentiment to a lot of experiences in Italy, like the dining culture I wrote about in my last blog. The buskers also remind me I need to act like I live in Europe and use euros and coins. 

It is funny that although street performances are quite a European tradition, all of the songs in Florence are covers of English songs. A lot of songs my dad would jam to, like Hotel California and Free Fallin’. I should extend an honorable mention to Hallelujah and any Coldplay song. It makes sense considering how popular Florence is for American tourists and students, and I can’t be mad I know the songs, but I do wish Italian music was easier to access. The English covers apply to stores and restaurants too. It’s pretty hilarious to be approving a glass of pinot while a female version of Stitches by Shawn Mendes is haunting the room.

I’ve realized it’s about the effort you put into seeking out actual Italian live music. My new favorite spot on the weekends to dance and chat at is called Jazz Club, which plays jazz if you could believe it. Unlike a lot of clubs that reel in American students, Jazz Club hosts a predominantly Italian crowd to cheer on Italian or international bands. It’s incredible to bump along to insane beats that everyone understands no matter what language you speak.

In the bathroom, I met two local women who suggested I go to Ostello Bello next, a hostel bar that has live music on the weekends. I can’t wait to go and bond with people from all over the world! I’m not a huge fan of “going out” these days, but Jazz Club has inspired me to do more research about other live music spots and unsurprisingly there are a lot. These recent discoveries have me appreciating how walkable yet overflowing with art the city is. I’m a little mad at myself that I’m almost halfway through my semester and I could’ve done more research from the get-go. But it’s pointless to mull over, and I’ve got time and a lot more to look forward to!

My standards for food are dangerously high now.

Published on by Claudia CutlerLeave a comment

I’m sure you’ve already heard, but the food in Florence is really good. I will try my best to explain but I hope you read this on a full stomach, for your sake! I start most days at the cafe across my street and cough up a couple euros for a fresh-baked cornetto paired with a delectable latte. People-watching outside with my quintessential Italian breakfast is always the perfect way to kickstart my day. But lunch is where the magic really begins. Even if I stumble into a spot I’ve never been before, I can always count on a 5-star focaccia sandwich or pasta dish. My favorite pasta right now is probably pappardelle al cinghiale, wide ribbons with wild boar ragu. Recently I discovered a classic Tuscan bread soup called ribollita, which I think I’m going to email the DU dining hall about soon. I have yet to brave the lampredotto that locals swear by, a street food specialty made from cow’s stomach. I’m going to try it before I leave, it just hasn’t been screaming my name. On the contrary, I have officially consumed the bistecca alla Fiorentina! Their T-bone steak here is famous for a reason. I’m not sure how to explain it other than a meat lover’s dream come true, seared to perfection. Although it is on the more expensive side, it is WORTH it and an experience to remember. 

Of course, dining in Florence’s tourist hubs can be a tad pricey. But I’ve found when I venture a bit off the beaten path, there are local trattorias and osterias that offer authentic, inexpensive, all the while mind-blowing food! It’s actually ridiculous compared to cheap food in America. It’s funny how a McDonald’s trip used to brighten my entire day, but now I just laugh when I pass it. Even at nicer sit-down restaurants, you can find pasta for 12 euros which would probably double in price in America considering the quality. And quantity! I was pleasantly surprised to find portions to be just as big, if not bigger. Eating out all the time is a luxury that no one in any country can afford though, so I’m grateful for Conad just a minute’s walk from my apartment. Conad is a fairly large grocery store chain with reasonable prices for all kinds of food. I’ve made such cute little discoveries like stracciatella yogurt, cheeses paired with specific jams, and multiple aisles dedicated to wine. While there are organic street markets I could stop and shop at, I appreciate Conad for its extensive produce section. The one thing about Italian restaurants is that vegetables are a rare sight to see. However, I’m not ashamed to admit that I take advantage of several Americanized restaurants like Shake Cafe, which I can rely on for a cheap and healthy meal. It was tough to weed out the overpriced tourist trap spots, but after some exploration and time, I can safely say my meals have never been more satisfying.

Something truly special about eating out is the authenticity of the service. Even though there’s no tipping system, all of the waiters I’ve had have been kind while remaining straight to the point. There are no fake laughs, unnecessary apologies, or check-ins. The ones with big personalities have no problem concealing it, joking that they won’t hand over the check; “what do you mean you’re full? No such thing!”. When we do bond every once in a while, I feel like they actually want to get to know me and my friends. Once we asked for the check at dinner, I noticed the waiter would wait for a long period of silence to arrive with it. The first time I noticed it had been 20 minutes since I asked for the check, I was confused and a little annoyed. But it’s happened almost every time now, and I realized that however long I have a dinner with someone is a direct reflection of how much fun we’re having. It’s a simple concept that dinner is a social experience, but eating in Florentine restaurants has trained me to slow down and truly enjoy myself, my company, and my food. It’s also an unspoken rule that ordering takeout, while an option, is actually not an option. The rudest glares I’ve received were for this reason, from cashiers to locals on the street. It makes sense though; why would you diminish dining or the people who put effort into your food? Food and wine are meant to be appreciated as a holistic experience, not just consumed. I think I’m beginning to understand la dolce vita – the sweet life.

I want to end with a quick love letter for my favorite gelato place, My Sugar. My Sugar won the best gelato in Florence competition in 2016, which is an insane accomplishment considering there is gelato on almost every other block. I’m surprised they haven’t won all of the years. I’ve probably been to 20 different gelato places since I arrived, and My Sugar is the only one I actively crave. It tastes like heaven fluff cream, and each flavor is designed to its fullest potential. I didn’t believe in perfection until I met My Sugar. If I could have one dessert for the rest of my life it would be My Sugar. Okay, I think I’ve gotten my point across. All in all, Florence is delicious.