Arroz y Frijoles: Daily Eats in San José

As someone who actively looks forward to each meal of the day, obviously I was excited to try all the food I could while in Costa Rica. The first day I arrived, my host mom was delighted that I had no dietary restrictions and was eager to taste anything. Later she would learn about my aversion to regular milk as I went on a hunt for oat milk instead, but besides that I genuinely do like everything.

The Costa Rican diet revolves around rice and beans. “Casado” is the traditional plate of food served for lunch or dinner, and consists of rice, black beans, fried plantains, a meat of choice, and often some lettuce and tomato as a small salad. Pretty much every restaurant here serves casado in some form or another, though there is a lot of variation from place to place which is what makes it so good every time – you’re never really eating the same exact thing. For example, last night our host mom made us casado with steak, potatoes, rice, beans, and plantains. The meat is always seasoned and cooked perfectly, and the fried plantains are the best part. Cecelia, our host mom, makes them in a little mini deep fryer. Last night she brought out a giant plate piled high with plantains. “I made extra because you girls like them so much!” she told us. You’d think something sweet and almost dessert-y wouldn’t go well with a bite of potato and steak, but it really does.

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Last night’s dinner – steak, potatoes, rice, plantains.
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Casado lunch from a restaurant in Cartago this past weekend.

Another component of lunches and dinners is a cold drink. It’s normal to be offered an agua fresca made from some type of fruit. Most restaurants have several flavors available every day – strawberry, passionfruit, pineapple, or a sour-sweet fruit called cas. From my understanding it’s really just fruit and water blended together – but how could you go wrong with that? Our host mom usually serves agua de cas or agua de piña. We also often drink this iced tea that is popular everywhere here – basically just sweet tea.

In the mornings, for breakfast, the rice and beans from last night’s casado are fried together with sliced yellow onion to make gallo pinto, probably Costa Rica’s most well-known and recognizable dish. It just looks like beans and rice stirred together, so when I first got here I was a little unimpressed. However, it’s so freaking good. The onions give the rice a ton of flavor and everything’s a little crispier than it was the night before. Usually my host mom serves it straight up, but I’ve had it at a few restaurants with toppings like fried eggs, pico de gallo, avocado, and bacon. If take any dish back to the States when I return to make for myself, it’ll be gallo pinto.

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Gallo pinto (bottom right) along with fruit, pancakes, and coffee at a hotel breakfast.

If we don’t have gallo pinto in the morning, it’s likely we’ll have cubes of fruit and perhaps a sandwich or a couple pancakes. Today, Cecelia make sandwiches with toasted bread, ham, tomato, and refried beans.

My only complaint about the Costa Rican diet is that costarricenses don’t seem to tolerate spicy food. I practically dump Valentina or Tabasco on everything at home, but I’ve only encountered hot sauce as an option at a few restaurants, and we ended up buying our own. Even the hot sauce they do have is not quite spicy enough for me – but the flavor is delicious.

I could go on and on about food here. I haven’t even mentioned the alcoholic beverages. (Let’s just say the margaritas are hit or miss but I’ve learned to love a spicy shot of chiliguaro.) That’ll be for another post.

The Swedish Culture of Respect and Integrity

Hejhej! As DU and the US steps away from Covid restrictions, I’ve spent the past two months living in a country that (with a lot of international ridicule) never placed a lot of Covid restrictions on its inhabitants. While so much has happened in these two months that it feels like a lifetime, I believe that the omnipresent coronavirus is a good place to start in terms of culture shock I’ve experienced while in Lund. In many ways, the Scandinavian countries have embraced US culture and do a lot to mimic it. Because of this, I haven’t experienced culture shocks very often. But in terms of Covid, Lund and Denver couldn’t be more different. I still receive all of the emails from DU mentioning the return to campus protocols, the flu and covid vaccine requirements, and the underlying effort to mitigate this disease even as we enter a post-covid world. Alternatively, Lund included one paragraph at the end of a welcome email about staying home when sick and that I could chose to wear a mask if I felt more comfortable. Other than this, the university and society hasn’t concerned themselves with requirements or strongly worded advice. While this may seem irresponsible (and some of the Covid case data may support that), talking with Swedes about their coronavirus response has been one of the most insightful conversations into their cultural values. Most Swedes believe that it is the individual’s responsibility to help society and not spread the disease. Instead of the government making demands, it is the people who chose to protect one another.

This social responsibility is something that shows up over and over within Sweden. Beyond the pandemic, I have been shocked at the number of bikes around Lund that aren’t locked. Everyone warns that bike theft is the most common crime, yet the Swedes still leave their bikes unlocked during class or meetings. Why? Because there is a social responsibility to one another. This shows up in even more situations. The Swedish queue is something that other international students and I roll our eyes at, yet Swedes will stoically stand in line with their number for almost anything. One of my friends from class was in an online queue for his apartment in Malmö for 15 months. He didn’t find this strange at all, and was simply happy to get his apartment when he did. Queues exist for small things to, like waiting in line for the bank or for a cash register at the store. You simply walk in, grab your ticket with a number, and patiently wait around until they call your number. I can’t imagine the issues this would cause in the US. Rather than a selfish society focused on what is best for themselves, the Swedes are content to patiently wait so that everyone gets their chance. If I were busier, I could see becoming aggravated by the lack of efficiency within this situation. However, the work-life balance that Sweden embraces means that I have time to wait in line for 30 minutes and that my call can be on hold behind 14 other people.

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This has been the largest culture shock for me during my first two months in Sweden, though interacting with locals helps me understand the benefits of this social responsibility style of interaction. There is something comforting about being surrounded by a community that is looking out for one another in most situations. I believe that this respect also ties into the value that Swedes’ place on integrity. Despite Sweden’s tendency to mimic the US on the surface level, they have managed to maintain their deeper moral values. I look forward to experiencing more of these values as I explore the Swedish culture for the rest of the year! Hejdå!