San Sebastián Solo-Trip

Living in a tiny apartment with five other people and constantly surrounded by noise and personality made me forget how much I enjoy being alone.

Recently, I decided to take a little day trip to one of the cities neighboring Bilbao, Donostia-San Sebastián. I had a weekend all to myself and wanted to make it back to the small beach town after hearing about a specific ocean-water therapy-based spa called La Perla.

So I booked a morning bus, made a reservation for 9:30 am, and I was off. Upon arrival I was greeted by gray clouds and lots of rain, not exactly ideal for a spa day, but we made do.

I had two hours at La Perla to enjoy the various pools and saunas. There was even a door leading out onto the beach, which due to the gray sky and frigid temperature I did not intend on taking advantage of. That was until I met Maite.

I was struggling to tighten my swimsuit top in the bathroom when an older Spanish woman came in and offered me help. I told her it was my first time at the facility and she got so excited, insisting she show me around and introduce me to her friends. Soon I was sitting in a sauna with a bunch of 80-year-old Spanish folk, talking chisme (gossip) with them. It’s amazing to see how much life is in the older generation. We shared jokes and little ice cubes you were supposed to rub on your legs in case you got too hot.

Eventually Maite convinced me to go out in the freezing cold ocean with her, and it was one of the best decisions I have ever made. We had the best time, laughing and screaming and jumping over the waves.

I spent the rest of the time enjoying the various sea-water pools, bubbles and jets, before seeing my time was up. Maite reminded me of a grandmother, insisting to help blow-dry my hair and walk me out. I will certainly remember that experience for the rest of my life.

After, I decided to explore old-town (I bought myself a pin that looked like a pintxo de tortilla, SO CUTE!) before climbing up Parque de Urgull and seeing the tall statue of Jesus “El Sagrado Corazón de Jesús”. It was so peaceful being on my own, getting to enjoy the rainy weather and lush greenery. There were various colorful flowers growing around memorial stones. It was perfect, not too hard of a hike, but once it got too cold and rainy I decided to cut my losses and head back down into town.

There, I treated myself to some patatas bravas and well-known San Sebastián cider. I brought my book and read for at least an hour while I enjoyed my snack, chatting with other customers and the staff (who didn’t end up charging me for my cider, so sweet!)

The rain started to let up by then, so I did some souvenir shopping for family and friends, getting to see the pretty architecture and cathedral throughout the small city.

Walking along Ramon Maria Lili Pasealekua, a street by the ocean, I hit every stand at the Christmas markets, treating myself to some churros and chocolate before visiting a nearby nativity scene in a little park.

Before getting on my bus home I ended the night walking along the beach, calling family members and accidentally stumbling in on a church service in the cathedral next to the bus station (same thing happened in London at St: Paul’s Cathedral, how fun!)

It was the perfect me-day, exactly what I needed. Though I do hope I can come back when it’s not too rainy next time!

Agur!

-GM ❤

Parisian Perfection

Oh. My. GOODNESS.

Little Gwen would be absolutely freaking out right now if she knew she was writing a blog about having visited PARIS! 

Last weekend, I visited the iconic city in France with my dad. It was wonderful to see him after having been away from home for so long (especially since he brought me a lot of American snacks). I flew AirFrance for the first time and got a little madeline as my in-flight snack (it was lovely). Upon arrival I met my father in the airport and we were off! After settling into our hotel and having a nap my dad and I headed in search of food. In this blog I want to share some highlights of where to eat and what to see when visiting this iconic city, the city of my dreams…

L’Escargot! 

When in Paris you of course have to try escargot! In this cute little restaurant tucked away in Les Halles, you are welcomed with warm french onion soup and bone marrow, but you come for the snails. This was my first time trying escargot, so I got a mixed plate with two traditional flavored (parsley and garlic), two truffles, and two foie gras snails. You eat them with snail tongs, which are so fun to grab the shell with, and are given a little fork to dig the meat out. They are a little chewy, but honestly delicious, it was like I was eating a ball of garlic butter. Quite the experience. We also paired this meal and most others with a glass of wine (white for me). It’s so fun to finally be 21 and able to try pairing wine with various meals, especially in Paris. My dad also ordered this soft chicken breast cooked with these sweet, chewy dates. It was to die for. The restaurant had a very warm, homey vibe, and a giant snail statue on top of the entrance. So cute. 

Notre Dame + Shakespeare & Company 

After lunch we went to explore more of Paris and stopped by Notre Dame. It was incredible to see how they have been working so hard to reconstruct the famous cathedral after the fire in 2019. It finally re-opens for the public again in December, I can’t wait! Right across the street is a bookshop I have seen all over the internet called “Shakespeare & Company”. It’s a now-famous little store, cluttered with books and pictures of various authors. It’s so warm and cozy, almost Harry Potter-esc with cramped little staircases. You’re not allowed to take pictures inside, but that really allowed me to enjoy the ambience of it all. I bought two books, each stamped with the famous ink design of Shakespeare’s head from the book store. After a little further exploration of the city at night, we polished off some crepes before heading to bed. You’re not doing Paris right if you don’t have a Nutella crepe!

The Louvre & Les Deux Magots

Of course we got tickets to the iconic Louvre. I’m going to give y’all a tip, when visiting the Louvre, pace yourself! I knew how big it was, but two hours just flew by. We were able to get through the Denon and Sully wings, and of course saw the Mona Lisa after pursuing the Tuileries Garden just outside that morning. It was so special for me, as the Louvre was one of the many places my parents got to visit on their honeymoon. My favorite exhibit had to be the Egyptian rooms, or the sculpture hall. I have always had a deep affinity for marble statues, there is just something so regal about them. The room was covered by a glass ceiling, allowing light to filter through and give the room this gorgeous white glow. Despite our three days there being gloomy and gross, Paris was still as beautiful as ever. 

Let me just say after a full morning/afternoon running around at the Louvre we were famished! We originally intended on another restaurant, but upon discovering it was closed, we improvised. What a lovely improvisation it was! My dad and I ended up at Les Deux Magots, a café on the corner of Saint-Germain-Des-Prés. Apparently, it was once a place the literary elite pursued in Paris, with writers like Earnest Hemmingway and Surrealist artists having eaten there. Glad we didn’t end up at the intended spot! Now I get to say I ate in the same place as Hemmingway! I also finally got to try one of the many items on my French cuisine bucket list: beef tartare! I have to say I was wary of trying this dish (It is raw meat after all) and I was pleasantly surprised! It was particularly chewy, but had a delightful flavor. My father got a salmon sandwich and fries, and we ended it all with a chocolate mousse (another french food bucket list item). 

That night we intended to check out the Opera House, but upon discovering it was closed we decided to enter the Galeries Lafayette, climb to the top and see the Eiffel Tower at night (what a treat). We ended the evening at a French bistrot near our hotel and I got beef stew with carrots (DELISH!). 

Le Relais de l’Entrecôte & Arc de Triomphe

After a morning once again enjoying the iconic Tower Eiffel (and taking lots of pictures), we decided to head to Le Relais de l’Entrecôte. Located on the corner of Rue Marbeuf street, this little restaurant stirs up quite the buzz. You have to get there right before they open and already there will be a line out the door. You’re ushered inside, welcomed by the red and gold decor. They fill as many tables as they can before locking the door. The restaurant was so crowded we ended up getting to make friends with our unintentional table mates. What makes this restaurant so special is that they serve one thing: entrecôte and fries, which is a specially cut beef. They’re perfected this recipe over centuries. They start you off with a side salad and wine before presenting you with the famous dish. The steak was cooked to perfection, covered in a special mustard sauce. The fries were warm and crispy (I swear there is nothing in the world like a good french fry), and once you finish they pile your plate with a second helping of both before offering dessert. I paired my meal with a red wine this time, classic for a steak. I was so excited to eat here, not only do I love steak and fries, but this was one of the restaurants my parents ate at on their honeymoon, so it was extra special to me. 

After that we decided to walk it all off by visiting the Arc de Triomphe. I had no idea what to expect, and it was certainly not a very tall, very long spiral staircase that made me a little dizzy, but let me tell you the climb was worth it! The views of Paris from the top of the Arc were breathtaking. You can see all the streets of Paris perfectly, all the way down Champs-Élysées to the Louvre, every iconic symbol and carefully crafted architectural building. The Arc was crafted to honor those who fied for France during the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars, with names of all the French victories and generals inscribed on the inner and outer surfaces; it was such a beautiful memorial to see. Safe to say it has some of the best views in France!

Musée Marmottan Monet & Burgers

Of course I had to see some Monet paintings when in Paris! Exhibited in an old Empire-style decorated townhouse once owned by Paul Marmottan, there are many of Claude Monet’s works there. It’s adorable, pink and blue walls enhanced by careful gold trim, full of a vast variety of some of my favorite paintings by my favorite artist. I would have loved to live in a house like that one back in the day, it made me feel like I was in Bridgerton. They also had the most peculiar and interesting paintings by Jean Francois de le Motte and Gaspard Gresly, artists famous for their hyper-realistic pieces. I love a painting that makes me feel as if I can reach out and grab whatever is there. My dad and I ended the night at another bistrot near our hotel and I couldn’t decide what to get so we settled on a safer option: burgers! One of the best ones I’ve ever had in my life at that. For dessert: crème brûlée and tirimisu. What a dream.

Hot Cocoa & Familiar Faces

Our last morning there my father had left before me to catch an early flight, and I decided to grab breakfast in the lobby with a dear friend of mine from camp I hadn’t seen in over four years. She’s been living in Paris for about two years now and has never been happier. We got to catch up over croissants (of which I had at least one a day-no joke I can live off of them for the rest of my life) and coffee. One day she’s going to be one of the best opera singers in Paris, I just know it. Right before my flight she offered to show me around Bastille and I treated us to some warm hot chocolate. Hot chocolate in France is just on another level of deliciousness. It was not overly sweet, just the right amount of warm and comforting, exactly what I needed when it started to drizzle.

With a tearful goodbye I headed off to the airport. Paris, you were delicious and beautiful and I simply cannot wait to go back.

Agur!

-GM ❤