One Month on the Emerald Isle

It is hard to grapple with the reality that I have already been in Ireland for just over a month now, and consequently, I have to face that I only have about two months left. The time has simultaneously seemed to pass so fast and so slow. There is so much that I want to see and do that I often feel like I’m already running out of time to do them. But I’ve learned to slow myself down and appreciate the sight I’m seeing, or what I am doing, to make sure that I am present and that I am living the moment, that I am an active participant. I don’t want to end my study abroad journey reliant on remembering these experiences solely through the pictures I take. I want to be able to draw upon the physical memory in my mind and recall what exactly these experiences were like in the initial moment.

All that being said, I’ve learned to appreciate the little things around me. A big adventure isn’t absolutely necessary whenever I have the spare time. Sometimes just exploring the city around me is enough, and Cork City has a lot to offer.

Getting to know the city you live in, I feel, is a crucial part of the study abroad experience. It will teach you about the people you live with- students, locals, and tourists alike- and can put you in touch with the culture in a way that can be unique. Cork is different from Galway is different from Dublin. Cork, while a popular city, is less of a tourist destination than the other places I just mentioned, and therefore has given me a more unique, singular experience. Cork is a city of art and music and life in a way that feels genuinely authentic.

Cork By Day

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Cork is a true city. There is something going on at all hours of the day, which surprised me at first. It seems like there are people running errands and going to the shops in the middle of the afternoon, even on weekdays. It’s not unusual to see entire families out, making a day of it.

There are so many food options, which I am constantly pleasantly surprised by. There are so many different restaurants and take-away spots that have their own unique personalities and feature a specific type of cultural cuisine: Italian, Indian, Chinese, French, etc. Cork is a melting pot city, after all, and there are so many great authentic spots if you’re ever in the mood for a specific type of cuisine. There are also several bakeries on each block, often just a storefront or two away from each other.

One of my favorite places in the city is Fitzgerald Park. It’s the perfect spot because it is so versatile- there are spaces within the park that feel different from one another. There are benches by the river in the shade, there are long stretches of grass lawn where you can sun yourself (when the sun decides to come out), and there is a lovely fountain that is the fixture of the park. There are benches set into carved alcoves surrounding the fountain, which makes it the perfect place to read. It’s also a great spot to people watch, if that entertains you.

Cork By Night

Night life- depending on the day of the week- can be a bit crazy. As UCC students tend to go home on the weekends, weeknights are usually very busy. Club culture is definitely a thing here, but in terms of the more laid-back scene, live music in the pubs is definitely a staple.

Our favorite spot is Dwyer’s, which has live trad (Irish traditional) music every Thursday night. I love listening to trad music because I feel like it helps me connect with the Irish culture. I’ve even started to recognize some of the songs in the universal repertoire, which makes the experience all the more genuine. The live music scene usually packs out the pub- to the point where it’s standing room only- but I’ve found that locals and tourists alike have no problem creating a dance floor from the small area before the band’s stage. The dancing feels like yet another mark of authenticity, and it creates an unforgettable atmosphere with the music. I already know that this will be a part of my experience that I am sorely going to miss once I get home.

Over this last month, I have met so many new people. Some have been from home, but a vast majority have come from all over the world: France, Italy, Germany, South Korea, Peru, Sweden, and Bulgaria, to just name a few. I have seen so many new things and travelled to new destinations. I have started to learn so much about Irish traditions- thanks to some of my classes- and what every-day life is like for the people who were born and raised here. I find myself feeling extremely fortunate- lucky- every single day, and I can’t wait for what the next month might have in store.

Dingle Peninsula, Wild Atlantic Way, The Rock of Cashel, and Cobh

I. Dingle Peninsula & Wild Atlantic Way

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With the end of summer and unfavorable weather approaching, it’s important to get all the true sight-seeing done, hence why The Cliffs of Moher were my first trip, and Dingle Peninsula and Wild Atlantic Way were my second.

The road our bus took is technically called “Wild Atlantic Way” but this road is located on the Dingle Peninsula. The town of Dingle itself is excessively charming and an extremely active hub of tourism.

Dingle is located in yet another rural area of Ireland, so rural in fact, that one of the villages outside of Dingle speaks Irish as their first language. It is a tight-knit community, and the government does not allow any new residents to move there unless they can speak Irish fluently. Dingle originally was a commercial fishing town- which is a seriously dangerous profession. Luckily, their main source of income now is tourism, thanks to the legend of Fungie the Dolphin (who appeared off the coast one day in the late 1980’s, and remained a staple tourist attraction until his passing about three years ago), and the natural beauty of the mountainous and cliffside landscape.

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Tourism has become such a pillar of the Dingle community that locals have gotten involved and made a reputation for themselves. One of the stops on our tour was at a local farmer’s property, where he was asking for €4 to hold a baby lamb! If you ask me, it’s absolutely the best €4 I’ve ever spent, and he’s definitely doing well for himself, considering the wad of cash he was sifting through when giving me change. It was a chaotic- we only had twenty minutes at this particular stop- but ultimately amazing experience. It’s something I never thought I’d do- I’m from the suburbs, and know nothing about farm life- which I think made the experience all the better!

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There are also beautiful things to see farther away from the peninsula, but still within sights of Dingle. The area is also known for its mountainous regions:

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II. The Rock of Cashel

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Don’t let the name fool you- The “Rock” of Cashel is actually a monastery, with parts of these ruins dating back to the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries. It was officially founded in the 12th century, and is also known as St. Patrick’s Rock, due to the saint’s affiliation with the monastery (it is said that St. Patrick converted the King of Muster to Christianity at this site). In the 1600s, the monastery was attacked by English troops, and has been left in ruins ever since.

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The ruins are extremely beautiful and carry a haunting quality. It’s almost an uncanny experience to be closed in by the remaining standing walls, just to look up and see sky rather than a vaulted ceiling. It is an iconic site for Irish history, and being there made me feel a bit more connected to the Irish culture that I’m learning more about every day.

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III. Cobh

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Cobh (pronounced “cove”) is a town on an island in Cork City’s harbor. It is best known for being the last port of call for the Titanic in 1912 (there are several memorials acknowledging the Titanic’s tragic maiden voyage). Its other main attraction is St. Colman’s Cathedral, which was completed in 1919.

The town is so colorful, which is so refreshing when comparing it to home. Everything is pretty uniform in the U.S- same style of home, same color scheme, etc- but houses here are fun and bright and have their own charm. Cobh itself isn’t a big tourist attraction, but I enjoyed my visit all the same. It made me feel a bit like a local, as if I was integrating into the culture. Life moves at a slower pace here, so it was really lovely to just stop and appreciate the things around me.