I’m arriving at the end of my time here in Buenos Aires, and I’ve been taking advantage of these final few weeks by traveling. Last weekend some friends and I flew to Bariloche, which is one of the northernmost cities in Patagonia, the southern part of the country known for glaciers and chocolate shops. And also Nazis, unfortunately. We were too far north for glaciers and – luckily – saw no vestiges of Nazism, but we certainly hit the chocolate shops. Bariloche is a city nestled in the foothills of the Andes and adjacent to several long, deep blue lakes. The main lake, Lago Nahuel Haupi, was so enormous I was sure it must be the sea. The landscape was absolutely stunning, perfect enough to be a painting, and for the first time since being in Argentina, I felt like I was well and truly outside. 

We stayed in a large house at the top of a hill, although we didn’t spend much time there. We made the most of our three days by walking many many kilometers. We hiked a mountain and discovered snow, as well as some guys from Buenos Aires who offered us a trial mix and travel recommendations. We strolled through the cobblestoned city center, stopping every few meters to take advantage of free chocolate samples at each little shop. One day we even did a chocolate history tour at Havanna, one of Argentina’s favorite chocolate shops. Some other highlights: a lovely midday doze on the rocky shore of the lake, a trek through a forest of arrayanes (see photo), and an accidental but wonderful 10-mile hike when we lost phone service and missed the bus home. 

To date, Bariloche is my favorite place I’ve visited in Argentina. The sky was huge and humbling and the mountains put me at ease. I’m already dreaming of a backpacking trip through the rest of Patagonia. 

And this weekend, I visited Mar del Plata! As I write this, I’m on the 5-hour bus ride home. Mar del Plata (Silver Sea) is a city south of Buenos Aires that juts into the beautiful Atlantic Ocean. My friends and I were picturing a beach vacation, but the weather didn’t agree. It was chilly and windy, plus a few of us forgot our swimsuits, so in the end, we gave up the whole lounging-in-the-sand dream. Instead, we walked several different beaches and dipped our toes in the water, and our pants if we looked away for too long. Following the recommendations of a Mar del Plata woman I’d met on the bus in Bariloche, we also spent hours meandering down the town’s main avenue. We attempted to window shop but ended up spending most of our cash on pretty things. 

It’s finals season so we allowed ourselves some much-needed rest and relaxation at our Airbnb. It was in the boonies, but it was a beautiful home situated in the forest, so we walked through our verdant neighborhood and petted stray dogs. We discovered a literal cabin in the woods that turned out to be a teahouse, and we whiled away an afternoon sipping fancy teas in what could have been the grandma’s house in Hansel and Gretel. 

It was quite the tranquil girl’s trip. I do wish it had been swimming weather, but I had a great time anyway. Next week I go to Iguazu – huge waterfalls, lush jungle – and then I’m officially done traveling through Argentina. My main goal for Iguazu is to control my urge to pick up random rocks and shove them in my pockets. After these last two weekends, and with limited luggage space, it’s time for some self-discipline.