October 2023 – Page 5

I’m sure you’ve already heard, but the food in Florence is really good. I will try my best to explain but I hope you read this on a full stomach, for your sake! I start most days at the cafe across my street and cough up a couple euros for a fresh-baked cornetto paired with a delectable latte. People-watching outside with my quintessential Italian breakfast is always the perfect way to kickstart my day. But lunch is where the magic really begins. Even if I stumble into a spot I’ve never been before, I can always count on a 5-star focaccia sandwich or pasta dish. My favorite pasta right now is probably pappardelle al cinghiale, wide ribbons with wild boar ragu. Recently I discovered a classic Tuscan bread soup called ribollita, which I think I’m going to email the DU dining hall about soon. I have yet to brave the lampredotto that locals swear by, a street food specialty made from cow’s stomach. I’m going to try it before I leave, it just hasn’t been screaming my name. On the contrary, I have officially consumed the bistecca alla Fiorentina! Their T-bone steak here is famous for a reason. I’m not sure how to explain it other than a meat lover’s dream come true, seared to perfection. Although it is on the more expensive side, it is WORTH it and an experience to remember.

Of course, dining in Florence’s tourist hubs can be a tad pricey. But I’ve found when I venture a bit off the beaten path, there are local trattorias and osterias that offer authentic, inexpensive, all the while mind-blowing food! It’s actually ridiculous compared to cheap food in America. It’s funny how a McDonald’s trip used to brighten my entire day, but now I just laugh when I pass it. Even at nicer sit-down restaurants, you can find pasta for 12 euros which would probably double in price in America considering the quality. And quantity! I was pleasantly surprised to find portions to be just as big, if not bigger. Eating out all the time is a luxury that no one in any country can afford though, so I’m grateful for Conad just a minute’s walk from my apartment. Conad is a fairly large grocery store chain with reasonable prices for all kinds of food. I’ve made such cute little discoveries like stracciatella yogurt, cheeses paired with specific jams, and multiple aisles dedicated to wine. While there are organic street markets I could stop and shop at, I appreciate Conad for its extensive produce section. The one thing about Italian restaurants is that vegetables are a rare sight to see. However, I’m not ashamed to admit that I take advantage of several Americanized restaurants like Shake Cafe, which I can rely on for a cheap and healthy meal. It was tough to weed out the overpriced tourist trap spots, but after some exploration and time, I can safely say my meals have never been more satisfying.

Something truly special about eating out is the authenticity of the service. Even though there’s no tipping system, all of the waiters I’ve had have been kind while remaining straight to the point. There are no fake laughs, unnecessary apologies, or check-ins. The ones with big personalities have no problem concealing it, joking that they won’t hand over the check; “what do you mean you’re full? No such thing!”. When we do bond every once in a while, I feel like they actually want to get to know me and my friends. Once we asked for the check at dinner, I noticed the waiter would wait for a long period of silence to arrive with it. The first time I noticed it had been 20 minutes since I asked for the check, I was confused and a little annoyed. But it’s happened almost every time now, and I realized that however long I have a dinner with someone is a direct reflection of how much fun we’re having. It’s a simple concept that dinner is a social experience, but eating in Florentine restaurants has trained me to slow down and truly enjoy myself, my company, and my food. It’s also an unspoken rule that ordering takeout, while an option, is actually not an option. The rudest glares I’ve received were for this reason, from cashiers to locals on the street. It makes sense though; why would you diminish dining or the people who put effort into your food? Food and wine are meant to be appreciated as a holistic experience, not just consumed. I think I’m beginning to understand la dolce vita – the sweet life.

I want to end with a quick love letter for my favorite gelato place, My Sugar. My Sugar won the best gelato in Florence competition in 2016, which is an insane accomplishment considering there is gelato on almost every other block. I’m surprised they haven’t won all of the years. I’ve probably been to 20 different gelato places since I arrived, and My Sugar is the only one I actively crave. It tastes like heaven fluff cream, and each flavor is designed to its fullest potential. I didn’t believe in perfection until I met My Sugar. If I could have one dessert for the rest of my life it would be My Sugar. Okay, I think I’ve gotten my point across. All in all, Florence is delicious.

I have been lucky enough to make friends with several local Argentines these last two months. Most of them I met through a classmate, another international student who happens to be well-connected here. It can be difficult to create close friendships across the language and culture barrier, so I’m grateful to have had that opportunity.

Anyway, one of these friends invited me to an asado last Saturday! An Asado is just the Argentine version of an American barbecue, and if you ever have the chance to go, you absolutely must. I met up at a friend’s house beforehand and played some fútbol video games before heading to the asado around 8 p.m. It was in a provincial suburb about an hour from the center of Buenos Aires, so we took my friend’s car and bumped to Taylor Swift on the way.

When we arrived, we were greeted by our host and his father and brothers, who were sweating over the grill (la parrilla) while trying to distract their dog from the delicious smell of steak. While we waited for the meat to cook, we drank red wine and Fernet and played ping-pong. Soon enough, our friend and his dad started ferrying plates and plates of meat from the grill to the table: asado and chorizo and pork and kidney and blood sausage and ribs and chicken and more. As you can see, an asado is not quite vegan-friendly. Everything was delicious and perfectly cooked. In Argentina the meat is of such high quality that people hardly season it and rarely use condiments – although I’ll admit I do miss barbecue sauce.

As we ate, we discussed politics (of course) and other Argentine affairs. Having local friends has been the absolute best addition to my education because they know the culture at a corporal level and I learn by listening. Plus it’s a great way to learn swear words.

I tried a bit of everything and when I thought I might finally burst, someone ordered several kilograms of ice cream. And once we really truly couldn’t eat anymore, we all laid around like you do after Thanksgiving when you’re so full and so content that you just can’t move. It was beautiful.

It was a blessing to have been welcomed into this world by such wonderful people. I felt so Argentine. I’m confident that this asado will remain one of my favorite memories of studying abroad, not because we ate so well or because we had such a fun time, but because I felt like I belonged there. I was able to fully immerse myself in an entirely new cultural tradition with new friends who were gracious enough to accept me. It didn’t matter how competent I was at Spanish or how much I understood Argentine politics because we were all of us bonding over a meal together. And that truly is a universal language.

Month: October 2023

My standards for food are dangerously high now.

Asado: the language of love